|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 35'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||FFA, John Stannard, 1972|
|Submitted By:||Joey Wolfe on Dec 2, 2007|
|Comments on Stannard's Crack||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
May 1, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
|After climbing this route again, I have to say that there is no way this climb is 5.8...it might have been 5.8 in the '70's but it ain't 5.8 now...."warning, sandbag ahead"|
By Joey Wolfe
Mar 11, 2009
I was up there again this last weekend and got on Stannard's. When i climbed it the first time i thought it was a sandbag but didn't want to add it to Mp.com with my opinion of the grade so i went with what the DCA claimed. Now there is a reprint of the DCA and it puts Stannard's at 5.9.
After climbing it again I feel confident in calling it a 5.9+, short but thuggish right off the deck and placing the gear in the crux is strenuous. Not to mention it holds a exposed position above the main face(possibly the most beautiful spot on yonah).
I'm going to leave the original post at 5.8 to keep Jeff's comments relevant and because he made his comment after visiting the crack with Henry Barber(right?). HB had me laughing with his comments about Stannard's Crack at his slideshow.
From: Steele, AL
Jun 7, 2009
|H-A-R-D...watched Tim thrutch up it with prcatically no gear through the crux because of the pump.|
From: Clemson, S.C.
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
|This thing is V1 and PG13. Might as well bring a crash pad, because your not getting gear in the crux.|
By James Dowdy
Mar 22, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Don't let anyone mislead you: this was never, ever, ever 5.8!!
It is a beautiful 10-; classic in every way imaginable - and, difficult to protect...
Man, this climb has everything going for it!!!
Downgrade it to 5.9 if you must - but please acknowledge how bold and prescient this was back when much of the world had minimal concept of 5.10...or even 5.9...
Kudos to John Stannard - a historically underrated first ascent!