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Prusik Peak
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Der Sportsman 
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South Face Beckey-Davis Route 
Stanley-Burgner Route 
West Ridge 

Stanley-Burgner Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Read the route name
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 8,497
Submitted By: Karsten on Mar 22, 2006
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D. Lucander on the outstanding final pitch corner ...

Description 

This is one of the finest alpine routes you may ever experience. The climbing is sustained, varied, and amazing.

Burgner-Stanley is a direct and obvious route visible from the ground on superb rock with high quality pitches. Pitches 1-2 and 3-4 can be linked into c. 180ft pitches, easily.

P1: Climb either a 5.6/5.7 chimney or a 5.8 wide crack to the left of the chimney to gain low fifth class terrain with trees.

P2: Scramble up to the last tallest tree, facing a knobbed wall with a think crack going up.

P3: Climb the crack and exit right on large knobs until you reach the deep gulley.

P4: Climb the gulley and belay underneath a good ledge below the obvious chockstone. 5.8

P5: Tunnel between the chockstone and climb nice cracks up into a flaring sqeeze chimney. Build a belay atop the chimney and move the belay right to start P6. 5.9

P6: Climb up the left facing corner and summit! 5.9+

Pro to 4" with doubles in .75 -2. Include TCU's.


Descent:
Walk eastward once on the summit and rappel the north face with slung belay stations. Rappel with either 1 or 2 ropes.


Location 

The route goes up the south face of the peak. Traverse the lake until you find the start. Walk off the west face route or rappel the north side of the peak. Also beware of the snafflehounds. They will eat your shoes, gear, etc!!!


Protection 

A set of doubles to #3 camalots are best but many can go with less. There is little fixed gear on this route or at the top.



Photos of Stanley-Burgner Route Slideshow Add Photo
Exiting the squeeze chimney.
Exiting the squeeze chimney.
Dan Hughes ascends the 3rd pitch cracks.
Dan Hughes ascends the 3rd pitch cracks.
Leading the great chimney pitch high up Stanley-Burgner route on Prusik Peak.  I thought this was the best pitch of the route & not the somewhat overrated (IMHO) final pitch.  June 2006.
Leading the great chimney pitch high up Stanley-Bu...
The final pitch corner.
The final pitch corner.
First pitch starting options.  5.7 chimney on the far right, or the 5.8 cracks just the left (really nice!).
BETA PHOTO: First pitch starting options. 5.7 chimney on the ...
In the squeeze.  Photo by Brad J.
BETA PHOTO: In the squeeze. Photo by Brad J.
Squeezing through the chockstone
BETA PHOTO: Squeezing through the chockstone
Cruising the last pitch.
Cruising the last pitch.
Final and Crux pitch.  It's actually vertical despite the camera angle
Final and Crux pitch. It's actually vertical desp...
Cranking up the final pitch.  What a great climb!
Cranking up the final pitch. What a great climb!
View from the summit block
View from the summit block
Comments on Stanley-Burgner Route Add Comment
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By Ian Wolfe
From: Fayetteville, NC
Apr 17, 2006

The Selected Climbs in the Cascades guidebook calls this route the South Face.

By Addict
Aug 16, 2006

There are over 10 routes on the south face. Everyone calls it the Stanley Burgner route so it is not confused with other lines like the South Face - Beckey Route, South Face - The Javalin, South Face - The Joust, etc., etc.

By rpc
Sep 8, 2006

I think it might be PG13 if you begin via the 5.7 chimney (have not done)? There are no runouts if you start via the 5.8 wideness just left of chimney. Everything else on the route can be laced up.

By Rafe
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Not that it really matters, but the route is longer than 500ft and isn't PG-13.

By Wesley Ashwood
From: Squamish, BC
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

We did the 5.8 variation and immediately got into a beautiful hand crack which is way more appealing to me than any chimney out there. Linked this pitch with the short 4th class second pitch and belayed at the top of the larch trees. Went up the crack trending right, then up a short slab to a dihedral. I am not sure if this first dihedral you come to is a the standard route but it seemed a little stiffer that 5.8 to me (5.9 I would say). We also linked the 3rd and 4th pitches but I wouldn't suggest this as rope drag was a little much.

By J-Wright
Nov 24, 2010

I lead the chimney years go. Not very much fun. Go for the crack start.

By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Feb 11, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

i agree, not pg-13...crux pitch is well protected and oh-so-splitter

By Mike McL
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Aug 15, 2011

If leading near your limit a 4 inch piece is very useful on the first 5.8 pitch (the left variation) as well as the final pitch.

By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

We broke up the pitches differently than the guidebook and belayed on a good stance just after the chockstone chimney. This let us get cool pictures of the follower and have a better belay for the crux squeeze. I found the squeeze to the be the hardest part of the route - I'll call it 5.9+ because it felt like 5.10b.

Be careful on rappel, there's lots of loose rocks waiting for your rope to knock off. We found shredded rope ends at the bottom - yikes.