|Type:||Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 165', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A1 PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Bill Duncan, Jon Burnham|
|Season:||spring or fall|
|Submitted By:||Bill Duncan on Aug 14, 2006|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Standing Rock: Chortler's Joy||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Mar 5, 2008
This particular route may be an FA. But this thing was climbed by 7 people from Western State College in 1975.
And I don't think it was an FA even then.
By Bill Duncan
From: Jamestown, CO
Jun 18, 2009
That article refers to Candlestick Tower, not Candlestick Spire. There is no "3rd class" on this spire.
That said, judging by the webbing, there had been at least 2 previous ascents of this spire.
By David Levy
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2+
This route was climbed fully clean at 5.9 C2+ (David & Kristen Levy, March 20th, 2013). The route actually begins more on the S-SW side of the tower. Scramble up 15 feet to a stance with good protection. Climb through a thin section above (small alien/slider) and then through an overhanging crack that leads up and right to a good ledge. From here they climbed straight up with good small pro aiming for a bomber 1 camalot placement. A tension traverse to the right provides access to a decent crack that ends in a flare a few feet below the bedding seam ledge. A final hook move led up and left to gain the good ledge where you can traverse left (north) to the base of the offwidth crack. TCUs/aliens/0.75 camalot and medium stoppers are useful for protecting the second on the traverse and for building a belay anchor at the base of P2. The offwidth section of P2 is very short and reminded me of the crux on Great Googly Moogly. Minimal wide gear is needed (single old 4.5 camalot high in the crack). The crack continues (mostly 1 to 3 inches) with a slightly-shakey and loose topout. Rappel from anchors on the opposite (E) side of the tower (2 pins and 1 bolt). This tower has certainly only seen a handful of ascents. They found an old Velvet tobacco tin on the summit with a damaged lid, a pencil, and no paper. Suggested rack:
Small HB offsets (1-6)
Med/large HB offsets (7-11) (2 sets)
TCUs (1 set)
Aliens (2 sets, offsets useful)
Camalots (double set 0.5 - 3, single 4 and 4.5)