This is a fun route that starts easy and gets progressively harder. 5.7 face moves lead to 5.8 and 5.9 as the route steepens. Various thin cracks are present higher up. There are only a few moves of 10a near the top. The crux is somewhat height-dependent and a fun puzzle.
To descend, traverse climber's right to the two-bolt anchor at the top of The Right Hand of Light and rap.
This route is on the left side of the West face of Lava Dome. It is marked by several thin cracks going diagonally up and to the left in the upper half of the route and is directly below a large cleft between two boulders on top of the formation.
This climb can be led or Tr'd. To lead, use thin to 2", but the anchor takes bigger pieces - up to 4". To TR, you must first climb one of the easier routes on the north face (such as But Fear Itself) and traversing right to go around the corner to the West face. The traverse is easy, but exposed - some may want to do it roped.
BETA PHOTO: "Standing Ovation".
Photo by Blitzo.
|By MikeP ROWCC|
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Maybe not the best lead because the gear wasn't the greatest. Nice edge climbing that gets progressively harder until you get to the last four feet of climbing. Found an edge high and right to get into the better part of the crack up high. One move, but it felt hard.