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Third Buttress
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Ah Maw 
Left Wing 
Mojo Rising 
Monster Woman 
No Mo' Jo' 
Standard Left Start 
Standard Route 
Standard Variation 
West Face (variation) 
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Standard Variation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,432
Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Apr 28, 2007
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  • Reopened after rockfall MORE INFO >>>
  • Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route is actually a link up of the first pitch of The Standard Route and the second pitch of Monster Woman (as described in Rossiter). Follow the first pitch of Standard Route, belaying at the top of the ramp. Move through the crux roof of the second pitch of Standard Route (7+). After surmounting the awkward roof, move left toward the left-leaning cracks and dihedrals (8) rather than right as for the Standard Route. Finish by passing the final roof on the left.


    Full set of nuts and cams up to 2.5 Camalot.

    Comments on Standard Variation Add Comment
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    By khoa
    From: 303
    Jul 8, 2009

    not as pretty but funner than the original imo