|PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>|
This is an "old-school" serious route. The first pitch climbs 25-30 feet of overhanging, unprotected rock to the first gear placement, and ends in a saddle about 40 feet higher at an old 2-bolt belay. The second pitch climbs an arete similar to that on the Razors' Edge for about 60 feet to a large block. From here, one can either move right into a loose gully and to the top, 40 feet 5.6, or swing left out onto a headwall and climb poorly protected 5.8 face to the top. A fixed rap anchor is found on the West side of the summit. One double/rope rappel gets you back down.
The route is found around the back-left side of the Tower as viewed from the saddle between the Tower and the Hand.
The protection on this route is vary sparse! It is possible to place a few wires and medium cams on the second pitch. The first pitch is a virtual solo until the difficulty eases!
|Comments on Standard Route
|By Mike Diesen|
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Oct 12, 2009
Not as serious as the guide book suggests. Climb about 8 feet off the ground and there is a bomber tri-cam placement. About 5 feet further and place a bomber nut in a crack. After the ledge follow a nice crack that takes lots of pro to the top of the first belay. The second pitch felt a lot more serious and run out on old bolts and a few pieces. If you find a placement do not pass it up on this route. The rapel is probably closer to 175 feet I would suggest 2 60s not 50s. We thought a 70 would be enough and I ended up lowering my partner off to run back to the car for the other rope while I waited on the summit. Very fun and scary adventure. We combined it with the Razors Edge for a full scare-fest day. Perfect for October.
From: mesa, az
Dec 21, 2010
I went out and did this line today, expecting the rusty mank but pleasantly discovered that all three bolts and both anchors had been replaced. It's still plenty scary and runout. We had a 70m and did 2 raps down the route.
From: Queen Creek AZ
Dec 21, 2010
After 8 or so years I had had enougBold Texth time to forget how scary the Tower was so I went back for another old school lesson in terror climbing. Pitch one was exactly as I remembered, run out. A couple of good pieces up high would prevent a decking fall. A BD .4 works well in an obvious pocket 15' off the deck followed by a micro nut slotted in to a tiny crack just another 5' further, it may or may not blow in the case of a fall. The rest of the pitch was protected with marginal gear at best on thought provoking terrain. However once you get to the top of that pitch or the second saddle, as well as the old rusted Leeper anchors were 2 3/8" confidence building rap chains. It was a bitter sweet, as it was the end of the bold 5.8+ R/X route.
Looking up the second pitch you could see another new bolt 20' up. It was next to the old second bolt off the belay. After clipping that and climbing on the arete for aprox 30' there was another new bolt, again near the old bolt. There was also one bolt where there used to be an old rusted piton and a button head that you needed to put a slider nut on. It more or less protects the traverse right into the chute. The old pin that is on top of the horn is still there so going out left is still a bit of spicy undertaking. The old rapp station that took you off the back side is not there but there are chains now so that you rap the route. (2) 60m ropes should get you all the way to the ground right near your packs I think...;) or (1) 70m will get you to the top of the first pitch. To be safe just go to the second rap station. All in all the new bolts are an added comfort and safety. The falls are still BIG and probably not very nice if you come off, so I recommend you don't fall. Now its not a solo and you won't rip your partner off their belay if you fall. You'll need a standard rack and lots of slings to help with rope drag.
IMHO this is a 5 star Superstition route!!! Every bit as cool as the hand, just harder and way more heady:)
|By Nate Young|
Jan 2, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a X
Can anyone say if the belay stations are protected with bolts or are these self placed gear anchors?
Edit: Just ran up this route. All belay stations are new bolts with chains.