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Kyle starting up Standard Route.
Enjoyable climbing on the second pitch more than makes up for the bad first pitch and it's weird body positions an gear.
P1: Start up the route from just behind the boulder and make awkward moves up to a pin, clip it and make a traverse move right (crux) place a piece and grovel into the chimney. Pull the flaring chimney and setup an anchor, either use the horn backed up or the crack.
P2: Stem, Layback, or straight on your way up the short WIDE chimney, it is very classic and unforgettable. clip the pin at the top and traverse 20' right to a rap station and belay up your second.
2 60m ropes reach the ground.
This climb can be found where the approach trail comes to a fork, locate the big boulder right in front of you, the route starts from behind the boulder and ascends the obvious broken easy 5th class ramp.
Full rack to #4(2nd pitch needs big gear#2-#4)
1 pin on the 1st pitch.
Kyle post traverse move from the pin.
Ben leading the second pitch
|Comments on Standard Route
|By redpoint robby|
From: Dover, NH
Apr 28, 2010
Warning: A friend of mine was traversing through the crux and pulled a little too hard on that key hold (upside down triangle/pinch thing) on the face and it ripped out. A 20 (or so) pound block came out with it and tumbled to the ground. There were no injuries but what is left is kind of a big sloping pocket making the move substantially more difficult than 5.6. We didn't have a chance to get back on it so I am unsure of a true rating. Any feedback on the rating is welcome.
Sep 4, 2012
I disagree that you need the #4, but you could place it if you wanted. Definitely make sure you have .75-3 camalots or equivalent on the second pitch though. The first pitch is interesting, I thought the dihedral right below the belay was fun, but not half as good as the second pitch.