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The Precipice aka The South Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balance Queen T 
Bartleby T 
Birch Ade T 
Chicken of the Sea T 
Chitlin's Corner T 
Connecticut Crack T 
Country Corner T 
Crack Of Senility T 
Dynamo Hum T 
Emigrant Crack T 
Fear of Flying T 
Fingers in a Seascape S 
From Russia With Love T 
Gale Face T 
Games Without Frontiers S,TR 
Green Mt. Breakdown T 
Grendal T 
Gunklandia T 
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 
High Wire T 
Jaws T 
Juvenile T,S 
London Bridges T 
Maniacal Depression T 
Michael's Pin T 
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge T 
Old Town T 
Philidelphia Story, The T 
Pipe Dreams T 
Precipice Ledges T 
Ramp Traverse, The T 
Recollections of Pacifica T 
Retlaw T 
Return to Forever T 
Rusticator T 
Scaramouche Arete S 
Sea Gypsy T 
Space Between T 
Standard Route T 
Story of O T 
Sweet Surrender T 
Trotsky T 
Vacation Cracks T 
Wafer Step T 
Wet Lithuanian T 
Unsorted Routes:

Standard Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 2,330
Submitted By: Ladd on Sep 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Kyle starting up Standard Route.


Enjoyable climbing on the second pitch more than makes up for the bad first pitch and it's weird body positions an gear.

P1: Start up the route from just behind the boulder and make awkward moves up to a pin, clip it and make a traverse move right (crux) place a piece and grovel into the chimney. Pull the flaring chimney and setup an anchor, either use the horn backed up or the crack.

P2: Stem, Layback, or straight on your way up the short WIDE chimney, it is very classic and unforgettable. clip the pin at the top and traverse 20' right to a rap station and belay up your second.

2 60m ropes reach the ground.


This climb can be found where the approach trail comes to a fork, locate the big boulder right in front of you, the route starts from behind the boulder and ascends the obvious broken easy 5th class ramp.


Full rack to #4(2nd pitch needs big gear#2-#4)

1 pin on the 1st pitch.

Photos of Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle post traverse move from the pin.
Kyle post traverse move from the pin.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben leading the second pitch
Ben leading the second pitch

Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By redpoint robby
From: Dover, NH
Apr 28, 2010

Warning: A friend of mine was traversing through the crux and pulled a little too hard on that key hold (upside down triangle/pinch thing) on the face and it ripped out. A 20 (or so) pound block came out with it and tumbled to the ground. There were no injuries but what is left is kind of a big sloping pocket making the move substantially more difficult than 5.6. We didn't have a chance to get back on it so I am unsure of a true rating. Any feedback on the rating is welcome.
By gio92
From: Bend, OR
Sep 4, 2012

I disagree that you need the #4, but you could place it if you wanted. Definitely make sure you have .75-3 camalots or equivalent on the second pitch though. The first pitch is interesting, I thought the dihedral right below the belay was fun, but not half as good as the second pitch.
By sclair
From: SLC, Ut
Jun 22, 2013

I second that need for .75-3. I had none, they were on the anchor, and I really wanted them. The 2nd pitch makes this worth it, with really interesting stemming for the 5' climber!
By Barrett Stetson
Sep 6, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

P1 - Blocky move up to traverse move. Traverse move looks harder until you start to try it, then really not bad with a small layback. Exiting dihedral above was harder I thought, not sure if people climb the big sketchy block on right instead sometimes?
P2 - A little awkward at parts, layback to stem, repeat. Had to be careful not to place cams where they could walk into deep cracks.

Overall not a bad climb, protection was all there (didn't need #4, but wouldn't have hurt to have it either), but nowhere near as good of quality as Story of O.

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