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 ADVANCED
Sunday Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2-fer T,S 
Antlers on a Sunday T 
Arch Traverse S 
Bandito T 
Beginner's Luck T 
Black Dynamite T 
Bridge of Air T,S 
Burnt Beautician T,S 
Catch a Wave S 
Dike Arch T,S 
Dike Pinch T,S 
Don Juan T 
Dreams of Far Away Places T 
Echoes T,S 
Fearless First S 
Gargoyle T 
High Exposure T 
Monkey Gone to Heaven S 
Motion Fascination T 
Napa Arete T,S 
Napa Valley T 
Optical Illusions S 
Overlap T,S 
People are Poodles Too. T 
Pillar 1 S 
Pillar 2a  T,S 
Porticullis S 
R-Tree It T,S 
Red Hangers T 
Right of Trash Can Alley T 
Second Pillar S 
Silently Indirect T,S 
Simple Mind S 
Single Bolt Seam T 
Smooth Reach T,S 
Standard Route T 
Steeple, The T 
Sun Dancer T 
Sweet Sunday Serenade T 
Three's Company T 
Tree It T,S 
Undocumented (Left of Bandito) T 
Unknown Arete T,S 
Unknown Pillar T,S 
Unknown Reach T,S 
Upper Deck 0.5 T,S 
Upper Deck 1 T,S 
Upper Deck 2 T,S 
Wave, The T,S 

Standard Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: KC Baum and Tom Archibeque, 10/87?
Page Views: 2,025
Submitted By: Steve Marr on May 4, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Having fun on the Standard Route.

Description 

The Standard Route provides the easiest access to the Sun Deck Ledge, and combined with Sun Dancer, is a great climb to the top of the Sunday Wall. From the top of Access Fund trail, turn right and follow the base of the wall past the first set of bolted routes to a large, left facing dihedral near a pine tree.

There are two ways to start up the pitch - left and right cracks separated by a fin that runs to the top of the dihedral. We started up the right side of the fin. Climb the crack (with occasional chimney moves) to the top of the dihedral (about a third of the way to the top of the climb). Continue up more face and crack climbing past several smaller ledges to a large ledge (the Sun Deck). We used every bit of a 60 meter rope and were able to climb one ledge higher, parallel to the rap anchors under Sun Dancer. From this ledge, either continue up Sun Dancer or High Exposure, or walk to the right to find a pair of Metolius eye bolts for the descent. Use two ropes to rappel back down.

Protection 

Set of stoppers, hexes, and cams to a #3.5 Camalot. You will need gear for the anchor, and then can traverse to a pair of rap bolts.


Photos of Standard Route Slideshow Add Photo
The anchors on the Sun Deck Ledge (below Sundancer...
The anchors on the Sun Deck Ledge (below Sundancer...
Grant starting the Standard Route.
Grant starting the Standard Route.
Kristin at the base of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: Kristin at the base of the climb.
Having fun on the second pitch of the Standard Rou...
Having fun on the second pitch of the Standard Rou...

Comments on Standard Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Seymour
From: 1996 Dodge Van, USA
Mar 18, 2007

FA: KC Baum and Tom Archibeque, 10/87.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Sep 13, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I would break this climb into two pitches or suffer heinous rope drag. Otherwise, fun climb. Get on it!
By Alex Garhart
Sep 14, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

With proper use of runners, this is a nice long pitch with little rope drag. 8-10 shoulder length runners would do it.