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Grant starting the Standard Route.
The Standard Route provides the easiest access to the Sun Deck Ledge, and combined with Sun Dancer
, is a great climb to the top of the Sunday Wall. From the top of Access Fund trail, turn right and follow the base of the wall past the first set of bolted routes to a large, left facing dihedral near a pine tree.
There are two ways to start up the pitch - left and right cracks separated by a fin that runs to the top of the dihedral. We started up the right side of the fin. Climb the crack (with occasional chimney moves) to the top of the dihedral (about a third of the way to the top of the climb). Continue up more face and crack climbing past several smaller ledges to a large ledge (the Sun Deck). We used every bit of a 60 meter rope and were able to climb one ledge higher, parallel to the rap anchors under Sun Dancer
. From this ledge, either continue up Sun Dancer
or High Exposure, or walk to the right to find a pair of Metolius eye bolts for the descent. Use two ropes to rappel back down.
Set of stoppers, hexes, and cams to a #3.5 Camalot. You will need gear for the anchor, and then can traverse to a pair of rap bolts.
The anchors on the Sun Deck Ledge (below Sundancer...
BETA PHOTO: Kristin at the base of the climb.
By Matthew Seymour
From: 1996 Dodge Van, USA
Mar 18, 2007
FA: KC Baum and Tom Archibeque, 10/87.
From: Bear Creek, CO
Sep 13, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I would break this climb into two pitches or suffer heinous rope drag. Otherwise, fun climb. Get on it!
By Alex Garhart
Sep 14, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
With proper use of runners, this is a nice long pitch with little rope drag. 8-10 shoulder length runners would do it.