Standard Route 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | unknown, 1963 |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Oct 21, 2001 |
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The wide crack on first pitch. Not great pro.
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Description On the lower South face of Rap Rock, the right hand edge forms a big slabby apron. The left side of this apron forms a huge dihedral with the main wall, which is Black Quacker. Just right of Black Quacker lie the following routes, from left-to right:P1 of The Standard Route (5.5 or 5.7, OK gear), Chiboni (5.9, pin + 3 bolts), Death Or Glory (5.10X, slab) Bender Axen (5.8 cracks) and Take To your Heals (5.9X, slab).
The standard Route is climbed as follows:P1: (5.6 *) Climb up and right across a few slab moves to reach a groove/crack. Place a piece and go up the crack for perhaps 60' to a nice ledge at the base of a big pine tree, and belay here. You can climb the rest of the route or escape now, by climbing to the right between two grooves (5.2?) to reach the escape slabs, and them climb up chickenheads and horns to the summit (5.2?)
P2: (5.7, *) Climb up and right from the ledge on a set of intermittent seams, for maybe 50 feet. Step left to a right facing corner, then climb up to a ledge. From this pevious corner, you can escape right onto the East Slabs and finish to the sumit from there, if you desire to do so, or else you can continue this pitch on past siad ledge and up to another left facing corner. Climb this for another 30 feet or so to a downward pointing flake. Maneuver to the righthand side of this and up to a belay on the ledge up and left of the top of the flake.
P3-5: Finish as for Black Quacker or choose a place to escape to the right and onto the East Slabs to the summit.
Protection A standard set of stoppers, cams .5" to 4", small tricams + spare long slings for tying off chicken-heads and slinging horns.
The upper pitches of Rap Rock can be well protecte...
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Did Someone say 'Chickenheads?' looking down on t...
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Chickenhead hiking on running belay around pitch 4
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Looking up at the 3rd belay.
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BETA PHOTO: Beta: first half of pitch 1 of Standard Route.
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BETA PHOTO: Beta: second half of pitch 1 of Standard Route.
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BETA PHOTO: Beta: pitch 2 of Standard Route.
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BETA PHOTO: Beta: pitch 3 and start of pitch 4 of Standard Rou...
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| Comments on Standard Route |
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By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
May 11, 2005
rating: 5.7
| This is a two-star route IF you do the Bender-Axen start. I just did the Standard Route start, and it is not very interesting. B-A is much much better. The second pitch has a 1/4" SMC bolt on it right next to a flake that will easily take gear. Watch for all of the loose blocks on the leaning column on the lower part of the second pitch. Any one of them could completely ruin your belayer's day. If you happen to have a wrench, please tighten the anchor bolts at the top of pitch 3. |
By James DeRoussel
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 30, 2008
rating: 5.7 PG13
| I actually like the wide crack Standard Route start. It is a little tenuous and not great pro, but fun climbing, to me anyway. I will however, second Bobby's warning. The stack of loose blocks above the pine tree ledge are scary and should be avoided. All in all a great route. |
By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.7
| Bobby, The Standard Route is a fine line. It has a lot of variety for a route in this part of the planet. And it may not be very difficult (start with Chiboni if you need more adrenaline), but it's in an outstanding location and offers nicely fractured cracks, face, slab, chicken-head hiking. It's one of the most "Sierra-Like" routes we've got down here... Those loose blocks are well-consolidated and easy to avoid if you need to. That's just the nature of climbing a big route (ok, it's not all that big) at altitude (or all that high - 9000'?).
I second James' assessment of the wide crack start. It doesn't offer a lot of pro down low, but it's not extremely hard either... |
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Oct 4, 2010
| Due to a high wind situation, after p2 we short-pitched and headed more or less straight up staying left(ish) anchoring down and right from the roof over Black Quacker p3(?). We headed up and left from there traversing under the roof then up to a ledge up and left from the giant pine tree. The traverse under the roof was good clean fun.. if you get a chance to go through there, do so. The rope drag is minimal and the gear is good but watch those loose blocks just after the roof.
Edit, ditto on James and Jerry's comments. This is was my first trip up to Rap rock and we had a great time. The goal was to get my gf some good exposure to multipitch climbing on mild ground and this was perfect. P1 has gear just where you need it. Lots of good varied climbing.
Single bd set from .3 to 3, nuts, lots of slings. |
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 5, 2011
rating: 5.8
| The move over the downward pointing flake just before the 2ed belay was 5.8. FUN ROUTE! do the Black Quacker finish from the 2ed belay. |
By Sheryl Miller
From: Tucson, AZ
May 9, 2012
rating: 5.7
| we climbed this in Nov. 2011 going up Bender Axen for the 1st pitch then the rest as Standard. What an enjoyable route, higher and higher and easier as you got more exposed. |
By James DeRoussel
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 2, 2012
rating: 5.7 PG13
| Climbed this again recently after a few years, and I feel that the lower part of the second pitch warrants at least a PG-13. The protection is scarce until you reach the crack above and a fall would be unpleasant for sure. I agree that the Bender Axen start is superb. |
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