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Standard Route, West Lion T 

Standard Route, West Lion 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: uncertain
Season: Late Summer, Early Fall
Page Views: 939
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 15, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The notch as viewed from the end of the traverse. ...

A few access issues here. MORE INFO >>>


This description assumes you have reached "the notch" south of the West Lion separating it from rest of the Howe Sound Crest.

Downclimb into the notch. There is a knotted fixed rope for your assistance; check it before using it, without the rope it's a brief bit of fifth class.

Make the obvious traverse along the base of the Lion. It's marked with red dots painted on the rock and has a fixed rope. I highly recommend NOT using the fixed rope. I fear for hikers who assume it's solid and pull themselves along it. If it lets go, there's no recovery from a fatal fall. Without the rope it's still only low fourth class scrambling.

The traverse is the crux, but there is a fair bit of steep scrambling to the summit and falls are likely to be very serious. Take your time with the route finding as there are some detours, don't be afraid to backtrack a bit, especially on the descent.


If you were to climb it with a rope, you could place gear and sling roots and trees, but I doubt anyone does this. Most people are either comfortable scrambling it (and given the fatalities, some shouldn't be) or just stop at the notch.

Photos of Standard Route, West Lion Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ted Lawson finishing the return trip along the tra...
BETA PHOTO: Ted Lawson finishing the return trip along the tra...

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