Standard Route, Sunlight Spire 

This climb took me several attempts. I made it to the base of the technical climb once (with my wife belaying) just as it started to rain. Several years later, when approaching with "rope gun" Tom Karpeichik, he pulled on a huge solid-appearing block during the 3rd class approach, and it broke free and tore up his leg as it slid past (he received a nasty laceration that required stitches). After Tom was patched up and walking down, Bill Wright was descending from Sunlight Peak and we teamed up for the ascent, but by this time it was late and looked like rain. We topped out just as a thunderstorm was coming in, and immediately rappeled off.

Check 14erfun.com/SunlightSpire.htm for a 2007 trip report on this route. Some good photos of the route!

Hey, my friends and I made the slog from Purgatory to climb the 14ers and this route. We had a blast; it's an incredible area. If anyone is interested in a 2009 trip report with photos, click here:

www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=6911&cpgm=tripmai>>>

I climbed this route on 9/4/09. While the crack has many good hand jams, it undulates between finger locks and cups, with many difficult thin hands sections in between. A good rack would be doubles or triples of #0.75 through #3 Camalots. The 5.7 section can be easily combined with the upper crack in one pitch. The approach ledge to the climb is not bad at all. The anchor needs work too, and currently consists of a 1960s vintage 1/4" cap/hex head bolt with poor hanger, an ancient 1 1/2 inch angle pin that can be lifted out of its placement by hand, and a green Lowe Tricam with a UV deteriorating sling. I think it's a sandbag at .10b, and felt more like .11- with the altitude. The severely left-angling nature of the crack makes this climb very difficult (tough feet).

As to the grade this climb: our party believes after our August trip that the route goes at 5.10a. We climbed with two teams (two leads and two seconds), before the route got full sun in the morning. After scrambling the first pitch, the first party led the crux pitch with no falls; the next group followed with one exciting fall, followed by an enjoyable break on the summit. We rappelled off the fixed anchor, using an unweighted secondary anchor for safety. The last man had no problem trusting the anchor for a rappel. We all had a blast on this climb, because of the spectacular setting and the incredible summit pitch. This is a highly recommended climb for those solid at the grade and those who don't mind a long approach hike.

Was traversing below the Spire in early May and noticed a rope hanging from the top. I would assume it had been there all winter. Just a heads up.

Looking at pics, I've often wondered if an ascent of the slab on the south face would be possible. After seeing the Spire in person in August, I'm pretty sure that it would be possible, but protection might be very difficult.

My take? The "first pitch" is not 5.7. It's a third class scramble. But then, at least for my size 8.5 hands, the crack is not 5.10, it's harder. Also note that the butress on the left "follows" you for the first half of the route, just below. Any degree of run-out will result in cratering on this buttress, until the second half of the route is attained, where one can feel a little more free to just climb and run it a little.

The anchor backs up well with a #9 hex. But don't take one; we donated ours and equalized it into the anchor. I'll post more photos of the anchor if anyone wants.

This is a really fun climb. If you have time before the storms, get a TR run on it. Best part of the day.

PS - we should have cut down those manky ropes that are hanging from the top and the crux belay. Apologies. Whoever goes up next, would you mind terribly cutting those down? Thanks so much!