|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Julian Smith on Jul 14, 2002|
|Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Standard Route aka 1st Buttress Route||Add Comment|
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By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 2, 2002
|At least it was not loaded with loose rocks mimicking holds. A bit Canadian-Rockies-like. Seemed like it might be a more interesting mixed route if it drips with ice....|
By Brian Faulkner
From: Fort Collins
Aug 11, 2003
|The climb was very mellow and enjoyable. I have not yet done any other routes on Hallett yet, but I imagine it's a good introductory climb for the area. I was not worried about making very many gear placements, but they were not many good ones unless you dig out moss and dirt.|
By Jim McGuire
Sep 26, 2003
|It's best to start with Great Dihedral or patch together some easy leads up the slabby section below the first buttress. Otherwise, it's a long haul for 2 or 3 pitches of not so great climbing. We took the right hand dihedral -chimney mentioned in the description which is quite easy until the very top. A bit claustraphobic, but it offers a quick discharge of the upper part of the first buttress.|
By shad O'Neel
Mar 23, 2004
|We combined portions of this route with the Center Route and Finch Route this past Sunday. Although, we found no ice, it was a brilliant winter scratch fest. Long, sustained, moderate, mixed pitches (5.5 - 5.7). We needed 5 pitches (each 200') including one (200'+) of snow in the mid section to go from the base of Hallett Chimney to the top of the Standard Route. The descent was tricky in the deep unstable sugar snow, and we were forced to rap back onto the north face after the 2 standard 1 rope raps. This climb yielded a good challenge and beautiful tour for two school boys with wintertime cabin fever. Incut holds in the long RF corners provided good crampon and tool placements, and continous cracks gave good protection (with some excavating of snow/moss) except for those mantle moves up onto snow covered ledges. Definitely bring big gear, and lots of nuts. We placed a #4, 3.5 and 3 Camalot on each pitch. We left all small cams below yellow TCU at home, but wished for green Alien a couple times. We never had to wail on iron or place a screw. Highly recommended.|
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Feb 1, 2011
|Does indeed make for an excellent winter route. No ice required.|
Aug 20, 2012
We climbed this yesterday.
1. It is possible to reach the start of the route by a class 4 scramble. Start from about where the Great Dihedral route starts and scramble left and up but not too far left. Once close to the "bowl in the face" and "white band ledge", cut across right and up to the base of the climb.
2. There's a lot of moss, grass, and dirt along the climb. It would not be good if wet. The protection is not great, dirty, mossy cracks around 1" or wider. You would wish for larger pieces.
3. The first pitch goes along a nice, straight, right-facing dihedral for about 100'. Then ledges and steps and easier ground for a short distance. You will be forced a tiny bit feet left to a base of a double right-facing dihedrals, 15' or so. There is a ledge and holes between rocks. There's a small tree above on a buldge. We belayed here (~180' from the base?). The second pitch starts a bit harder and protection is more difficult. Took some time to figure out which line to take. Then it's again very straight long big dihedral to the skyline and the top of the climb.
The general impression is that climbing was not that hard per se, but protection made for some excitement. The beta is not great and there's not many people climbing this.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 23, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
|Good route. There are numerous options to approach the upper headwall. Yesterday, two folks and I took a line near the Great Dihedral and meandered up through 500' of broken yet fun alpine terrain to reach the headwall. We climbed the headwall in 3 pitches (150', 100', and 100' respectively), and this allowed me to use the obvious belay stances. Gear wise, a single rack up to #3 Camalot would be appropriate. The #4 Camalot is not necessary but did come in handy for me yesterday. Overall, this should be considered an alpine rock experience, unlike the smooth swaths of stone just climber's right of this area, and moss/dirt/wet/looseness should be considered a part of the overall aura.|
From: Golden, CO
Jul 23, 2016
|To add more clarity to the descent. We did two 100 ft rappels. First rappel is from chain anchors described above and lands you on a nice ledge, but the downclimb from there looked to be hard 4th or easy 5th class. We choose to do the second rappel from that ledge, which is from slings/rope around a large rock flake. We had a single 70m rope, and the two rappels were no problem for us with no rope drag when pulling. At the bottom of the second rappel, follow the gully down until you see cairns (depending on how fast you hike, you may be hiking for 5-ish minutes before seeing cairns). Descent from there is heavily cairned on 3rd/4th class scrambling on sometimes loose rock/scree.|