Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Artist's Bluff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Artist's Arete T 
Brass Balls T 
Handy Cap Direct T,S 
Little Monalisa T,TR 
Right Side Route T 
Special Olympics T,S 
Standard Direct T 
Standard Route T 
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 
Standard route 5.7 variation T 
Vincent's Ear T,S 

Standard Route 5.10 variation 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 327
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

I think this route should have it's own name cause its so much harder and a bit more serious than Standard's other options... I called it PG13 cause i thought it was a bit sketchy climbing over my pro above a big ledge (in my mind it was more "R") the guide i have makes no mention of sketchy climbing so perhaps i missed a protection option (but i don't think so)... With a good belayer you should be fine...

Pitch 1: Climb the original start to Standard Route to the nice big belay ledge... Belay from pins...

Pitch 2: Step left from the anchor to a "Finger Crack" which isn't exactly splitter its more like a few pods leading to face climbing... Place the highest piece you can in the "Crack" and climb some face moves above getting a bit away from your last piece before getting a good stance and more moderate climbing to a belay in a nook above...

Pitch 3: Easy climbing to the top of the cliff...

Location 

Just left of the anchor at the first belay on Standard Route...

Protection 

TCUs helpful on the crux... Regular rack otherwise...


Comments on Standard Route 5.10 variation Add Comment
Show which comments
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 30, 2009

You didn't miss any protection placements that I am aware of on this variation. We once upon a time, rated it the (5-9) boulder problem way to do the second pitch and it had no protection.