I think this route should have it's own name cause its so much harder and a bit more serious than Standard's other options... I called it PG13 cause i thought it was a bit sketchy climbing over my pro above a big ledge (in my mind it was more "R") the guide i have makes no mention of sketchy climbing so perhaps i missed a protection option (but i don't think so)... With a good belayer you should be fine...
Pitch 1: Climb the original start to Standard Route to the nice big belay ledge... Belay from pins...
Pitch 2: Step left from the anchor to a "Finger Crack" which isn't exactly splitter its more like a few pods leading to face climbing... Place the highest piece you can in the "Crack" and climb some face moves above getting a bit away from your last piece before getting a good stance and more moderate climbing to a belay in a nook above...
Pitch 3: Easy climbing to the top of the cliff...
Just left of the anchor at the first belay on Standard Route...
TCUs helpful on the crux... Regular rack otherwise...
|Comments on Standard Route 5.10 variation
|By bradley white|
Jul 30, 2009
You didn't miss any protection placements that I am aware of on this variation. We once upon a time, rated it the (5-9) boulder problem way to do the second pitch and it had no protection.