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Standard Route  

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Robert Underhill , 1931
Page Views: 985
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 2, 2009

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Enter at a weakness in the lowest point of the slab's tongue of rock and follow this line of least resistance up a depression for a rope's length. Belay, then head left and up (crux)to the tree ledge. [Editor's note: These must be very long pitches, (70M?) since most climbs take 4 pitches to reach the tree ledge.]
Travel right traversing on tree ledge to it's northern side. Climb slab to cave like outcropping. Head up and right following short slabs traversing up and left but not going into the trees. I gave it 2 stars only because it's a bit mossy from being an ice route in the winter.

[Admin's NOTE: There is an excellent article in a recent Appalachia where the climbers have apparently re-discovered the ancient route of "Standard Route" up through the Upper Tier. Whereas Bradley describes moving right to finish the climb, which is a perfectly reasonable (especially for someone soloing) all old route descriptions indicate the original Std Route went up and left through the Big Tree ledge to reach the base of the Upper Face. (aka "Upper Tier") ]


Where the slabs bottom out to the ground and the center of the cliff. Follow railroad tracks west until you're below this section and scramble up talus and trees to cliff. DESCENT: Go down Willard Trail, 2 mile hike to car.


traditional rack pro is okay on the lower slab. the crux is run out. There are bolted variations to cave upper section or go for it without clipping bolts to cave. Not much of anything for pro wandering up to the top of the cliff.

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