A cool variation to the standard's easy start... If you are new to leading id stick with the regular start as this one is a little less secure...
Pitch 1: Start 15 feet right of the regular standard start... Climb sloping ledges past a pin to a left facing corner... Up the corner to a ledge belay from gear or traverse left to belay from pins at the top of the regular first pitch...
Or since you are on the direct start just keep going to the top of the steep section about 100 Ft off the ground and belay from there...
15 feet right of the regular start for standard rt... climb sloping ledges to gain a left facing corner...
|Comments on Standard Direct
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b R
Did this today and did not come across any pin, which made a serious ground fall potential. there is not much gear between 6 feet off the ground and the corner so it is at least R rated without the pin, which neither myself or my partner saw.