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> Pine Creek Canyon
> Crack of Noon Buttress
Stand Up and Deliver
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 11 votes
Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | E. and L. Stefke, Feb. 27, 2016 |
Page Views: | 1,220 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | old5ten on Mar 1, 2016 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
There are two possible starts on this route. Traverse diagonally right and slightly up from the start of 'Rewritten' or climb straight up on easy 5th class from below the start of 'Rewritten.' It is a good 20'+ to the first bolt.
At the first bolt (added after the FA) climb up on good holds, then step out left (around the corner) at the second bolt. Move up from there on easy terrain to a slab and slightly right to the 3rd bolt. Surmount the short headwall (5.7/5.8) just right of the 4th bolt. This is a bit height dependent (easier for med./taller climbers), the hidden bucket just right of the bolt helps, as do mantle skills. Continue up past another bolt and a horizontal crack (small/medium cam), on to a shallow corner (bolt) and the last moves (5.9) directly up a small trough past the final bolt. It is possible to completely avoid this crux move by going to an easy crack to the left (although this is less fun/aesthetic).
At the first bolt (added after the FA) climb up on good holds, then step out left (around the corner) at the second bolt. Move up from there on easy terrain to a slab and slightly right to the 3rd bolt. Surmount the short headwall (5.7/5.8) just right of the 4th bolt. This is a bit height dependent (easier for med./taller climbers), the hidden bucket just right of the bolt helps, as do mantle skills. Continue up past another bolt and a horizontal crack (small/medium cam), on to a shallow corner (bolt) and the last moves (5.9) directly up a small trough past the final bolt. It is possible to completely avoid this crux move by going to an easy crack to the left (although this is less fun/aesthetic).
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