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This variation of Little Black Box
is slightly cleaner, easier, and more fun than the original line. If you find yourself on the access the ledge on the upper Northwest face of the second tier, you may as well do all 3 of these routes.
Just to the right of the scramble-up, spot a small stem-box that goes past a bush to a crack that splits to left and right. Climb up past the bush (5.7, crux) and head right up the crack on that side to the top. The rock here is cleaner and less bushy. Clip the chain and bolt with slings and lower off.
This route is on the right-most ans shortest of 3 buttresses of the second tier Approach from the eldge below the second buttress and go up and right (5.6 scramble) to a second, slightly higher ledge. Little Black Box
, Stand By, and Drunken Pilot
(L->R) all start from this ledge. Stand By is the right side of a split crack that starts with a stem, Little Black Box
is the dirtier line just left, and Drunken Pilot
is the handcrack to the right of those about 3 meters.
A single set of cams from small to 3.5".
The anchor up top is a bolt with chain and a plain hanger - if you want to rap back down on both bolts, as opposed to 1, leave a bit of webbing or chain on the second bolt (12").