Tired of the flesh being ripped from your body? This is an introduction to the "Other Vedawoo" and the great face climbing available. This short route starts from the top of a gully directly below "Finally" and just right(west) of the "Lower Slots". A clip right at ground height protects the opening crux moves, in fact the crux is trying to figure out how to get two feet off the ground; not 24" high, but how to get one foot then the other on the rock! Probably harder then 10a for one move but your only two feet off the deck. The rest of the climb is a fun crystal pinch and balance romp up the gradually steepning face with another minor crux just below the top. Rap off to the west and get a great view of "Harder then your Husband" 12a or b on the way down
3-4 bolts plus anchors. (Don't try to top-rope this from the rap anchors without using a real long sling or belaying from the top, the anchors are WAY back.)
|By Mark J. Nelson|
Jan 13, 2003
This is a great route. Beware, however, the groundfall potential between the second and third bolts. The climbing there is significantly easier than down below, but it's still not a fall you really want to take.
|By Tyson S Arp|
Mar 14, 2003
This climb will only rip flesh off of your fingertips!!
|By Matthew Williams|
Oct 1, 2003
I wouldn't worry too much about the fall after the first bolt or the second bolt. If you can pull the first move you should be golden on the rest....really fun climb.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
May 1, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
The first move really is 10a, if you've got the beta right. I won't spoil it, but suffice it to say that the obvious foot hold is not the right one. Don't be greedy and its a lot easier.
|By Kristie Koski|
From: Berkeley, CA
May 8, 2008
The start of this climb seems more difficult for a shorter person. In the middle of winter, though, when there are several inches of snow on the ground it creates a step right below the start of the climb. The 10a move at the beginning isn't quite as challenging then.
|By Eric Goltz|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 29, 2008
Good, if short, Vedauwoo face climbing. I thought getting off the ground was way harder than 10a.