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Stanage Edge

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Apparent North 
B.A.W.s Area 
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Stanage Edge Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 53.35828, -1.64206 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,722
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: adam brink on Dec 14, 2007
Forecast:
Thursday

58° | 45°
Friday

63° | 43°
Saturday

65° | 44°
Sunday

62° | 47°
Monday

59° | 51°
Tuesday

66° | 50°
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Description 

Without a doubt, Stanage Edge is one of the great crags of England, if not the world. Where it lacks in height, it makes up for in diversity and volume. On Peak Rock describes Stanage as "Gritsone at its best" and one would be hard pressed to argue with that. The rock is absolutely bomber, the number of classic routes and problems is staggering and the views perfectly English.

The Edge runs roughly north south, and has several recognised sub areas. These are reflected here:

Getting There 

Most of the minor roads east of Hathersage (to the West of Sheffield) lead up to the crag. Try the one past The Scotsman's Pack for starters.

Climbing Season

For the The Peak District area.

Weather station 8.1 miles from here

93 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',43],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',19],['5.7',8],['5.8',14],['5.9',15],['5.10',22],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',6],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Stanage Edge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Stanage Edge:
Not To Be Taken Away   V4 6B     Boulder, 20'   Plantation Bouldering
Deliverance   V8 7B     Boulder, 15'   Plantation Bouldering
Flying Buttress   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 55'   Christmas Crack : The Flying Buttress
Heaven Crack   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 30'   B.A.W.s Area : Saliva Buttress
Mississippi Buttress Direct   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 60'   Mississippi Area : Mississippi Buttress
Goliath's Groove   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 65'   Goliath's Area : Goliath's Groove Area
Right Unconquerable   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 45'   The Unconquerables Area : Unconquerable Buttress
Left Unconquerable   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 45'   The Unconquerables Area : Unconquerable Buttress
Flying Buttress Direct   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Christmas Crack : The Flying Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Stanage Edge

Featured Route For Stanage Edge
Rock Climbing Photo: Doesn't that looks like some fun

Flying Buttress Direct 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : The Flying Buttress
Exhilarating climbing on large holds. Climb up the slab to the center of the roof. No protection until under the roof and it is off to the left. Get to the first big hold and do a blind placement of a #1 BD or was a #2. Sorry I can't remember. Now there is a little trick to getting established, but I am not giving that away. After that brute force will get to the top. Enjoy. A side note when I first climb in Stanage, I did not understand the ratings. The guy(Patrick) I was clim...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Stanage Edge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stanage South Overview
BETA PHOTO: Stanage South Overview
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at Stanage from the forest below the Uncon...
Looking at Stanage from the forest below the Uncon...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stanage Edge
Stanage Edge
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from Stanage
The view from Stanage
Rock Climbing Photo: Stanage Popular Overview
BETA PHOTO: Stanage Popular Overview
Rock Climbing Photo: The Popular End parking from seen from the edge.
BETA PHOTO: The Popular End parking from seen from the edge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gritstone
Gritstone

Comments on Stanage Edge Add Comment
Show which comments
By rdlennon
From: New Hampshire
Nov 17, 2008
The Rockfax guide is a great resource for locating routes and determining grades. There are not many pictures and the descriptions aren't comprehensive, however. Best to buy a guidebook (Stanage: The Definitive Guide is the best) once you get to the UK.
By lm610
From: Nottingham
Jul 10, 2011
Read my the first part of my Stanage Review
gachieve.blogspot.com/

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