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Stanage Edge

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Apparent North 
B.A.W.s Area 
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Stanage Edge  

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Location: 53.35828, -1.64206 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: adam brink on Dec 14, 2007
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Without a doubt, Stanage Edge is one of the great crags of England, if not the world. Where it lacks in height, it makes up for in diversity and volume. On Peak Rock describes Stanage as "Gritsone at its best" and one would be hard pressed to argue with that. The rock is absolutely bomber, the number of classic routes and problems is staggering and the views perfectly English.

The Edge runs roughly north south, and has several recognised sub areas. These are reflected here:

Getting There 

Most of the minor roads east of Hathersage (to the West of Sheffield) lead up to the crag. Try the one past The Scotsman's Pack for starters.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.1 miles from here

93 Total Routes

['4 Stars',19],['3 Stars',40],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stanage Edge:
Not To Be Taken Away   V4 6B     Boulder, 20'   Plantation Bouldering
Deliverance   V8 7B     Boulder, 15'   Plantation Bouldering
Flying Buttress   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 55'   Christmas Crack : The Flying Buttress
Heaven Crack   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 30'   B.A.W.s Area : Saliva Buttress
Mississippi Buttress Direct   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 60'   Mississippi Area : Mississippi Buttress
Goliath's Groove   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 65'   Goliath's Area : Goliath's Groove Area
Right Unconquerable   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 45'   The Unconquerables Area : Unconquerable Buttress
Left Unconquerable   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 45'   The Unconquerables Area : Unconquerable Buttress
Flying Buttress Direct   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Christmas Crack : The Flying Buttress
Browse More Classics in Stanage Edge

Featured Route For Stanage Edge
Looking back down Tippler.   The route follows the...

The Tippler 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Tippler Buttress
Start up the right arete below the overhang with a couple of long reaches. Once at the overhang place some gear and traverse left on good finger holds until below the slot in the middle of the overhang. The slot sometime s has a thread runner, but if that's missing a cam fits really well.Now reach over the overhang, place another cam in the break up left if you feel like it, then move on up to gain a standing position on the wall above.Once standing romp on up to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Stanage Edge Slideshow Add Photo
Stanage South Overview
BETA PHOTO: Stanage South Overview
Looking at Stanage from the forest below the Uncon...
Looking at Stanage from the forest below the Uncon...
Stanage Edge
Stanage Edge
The view from Stanage
The view from Stanage
Stanage Popular Overview
BETA PHOTO: Stanage Popular Overview
The Popular End parking from seen from the edge.
BETA PHOTO: The Popular End parking from seen from the edge.

Comments on Stanage Edge Add Comment
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By rdlennon
From: New Hampshire
Nov 17, 2008
The Rockfax guide is a great resource for locating routes and determining grades. There are not many pictures and the descriptions aren't comprehensive, however. Best to buy a guidebook (Stanage: The Definitive Guide is the best) once you get to the UK.
By lm610
From: Nottingham
Jul 10, 2011
Read my the first part of my Stanage Review