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Stanage Edge

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Apparent North 
B.A.W.s Area 
Black Hawk Area 
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Stanage Edge Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 53.35828, -1.64206 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,087
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: adam brink on Dec 14, 2007

52° | 41°

54° | 39°

56° | 43°

57° | 45°

58° | 49°

59° | 46°
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The view from Stanage


Without a doubt, Stanage Edge is one of the great crags of England, if not the world. Where it lacks in height, it makes up for in diversity and volume. On Peak Rock describes Stanage as "Gritsone at its best" and one would be hard pressed to argue with that. The rock is absolutely bomber, the number of classic routes and problems is staggering and the views perfectly English.

The Edge runs roughly north south, and has several recognised sub areas. These are reflected here:

Getting There 

Most of the minor roads east of Hathersage (to the West of Sheffield) lead up to the crag. Try the one past The Scotsman's Pack for starters.

Climbing Season

For the The Peak District area.

Weather station 8.1 miles from here

93 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',44],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Stanage Edge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Stanage Edge:
Not To Be Taken Away   V4 6B     Boulder, 20'   Plantation Bouldering
Deliverance   V8 7B     Boulder, 15'   Plantation Bouldering
Flying Buttress   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 55'   Christmas Crack : The Flying Buttress
Heaven Crack   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 30'   B.A.W.s Area : Saliva Buttress
Mississippi Buttress Direct   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 60'   Mississippi Area : Mississippi Buttress
Right Unconquerable   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 45'   The Unconquerables Area : Unconquerable Buttress
Goliath's Groove   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 65'   Goliath's Area : Goliath's Groove Area
Left Unconquerable   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 45'   The Unconquerables Area : Unconquerable Buttress
Flying Buttress Direct   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Christmas Crack : The Flying Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Stanage Edge

Featured Route For Stanage Edge
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad Pit

Brad Pit V10 7C+  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Plantation Bouldering
I haven't sent this problem, but it deserves inclusion in the database since it is probably the most-tried, best-known 'hard' testpiece in the area. Four moves! There are many beta variations, but all involve starting matched on the crimp rail, a creative foot placement, a desperate friction grab on the poor swell, and a lunge for the flat jug just below the lip. Fire away!A gruesome sit start exists as well. Take one look at the 'holds' and you will doubt very much the validity of the first asc...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Stanage Edge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gritstone
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at Stanage from the forest below the Uncon...
Looking at Stanage from the forest below the Uncon...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stanage Popular Overview
BETA PHOTO: Stanage Popular Overview
Rock Climbing Photo: Stanage South Overview
BETA PHOTO: Stanage South Overview
Rock Climbing Photo: The Popular End parking from seen from the edge.
BETA PHOTO: The Popular End parking from seen from the edge.
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from Stanage
The view from Stanage
Rock Climbing Photo: Stanage Edge
Stanage Edge

Comments on Stanage Edge Add Comment
Show which comments
By rdlennon
From: New Hampshire
Nov 17, 2008
The Rockfax guide is a great resource for locating routes and determining grades. There are not many pictures and the descriptions aren't comprehensive, however. Best to buy a guidebook (Stanage: The Definitive Guide is the best) once you get to the UK.
By lm610
From: Nottingham
Jul 10, 2011
Read my the first part of my Stanage Review

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