Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Nuclear Reactor Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chernobyl Crack T 
Helicopter Memory Farts T 
Nuclear Winter TR 
Nuke the Poodles TR 
Nuke the Whales T 
Stan And Ollie T 
We''ll Get Them Little Pricks (AKA Cunning Linquist) T 

Stan And Ollie 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike Brown & Rick McKay, April 1984
Page Views: 897
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 3, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Mark Leading Stan and Ollie.

Description 

Stan and Ollie follows a narrow dike that begins as leftward-trending, and straightens up fifteen feet or so off the ground. The straight up start is more difficult.

Start to the right, and gain a horizontal (so you're standing on top of the dike) about eight feet off the ground. Walk left and move up to the bolt; there's an opportunity for small gear to protect the potential ground fall here, but it's not great.

From the bolt, make a couple 5.7 sequences to gain a short, vertical, relatively shallow (deep enough for tricams, but some cams would be a little wide) crack. Fire the crack and belay atop the rock.

Walk off to climber's right.

Because of the relative ease of the walkoff and the proximity to Jumbo Rocks Campground (if you happen to be camping there), this is quite a nice place to spend sunset.

Protection 

One bolt (3/8"), standard rack.

Smallish nut in an angled, sideways placement in the dike to protect the sequence onto the horizontal eight feet off the ground.

Medium cams/tricams for the belay anchor, maybe smaller depending on where you choose to build it. (Lots of good options.)


Photos of Stan And Ollie Slideshow Add Photo
Nuclear Reactor Rock
BETA PHOTO: Nuclear Reactor Rock

Comments on Stan And Ollie Add Comment
Show which comments
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 26, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

took a couple of fun ladies out to this one today... pretty easy stuff, but enjoyable... Lots of sun so a good area when colder (It was a bit Suzy Bake Oven today)...
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 8, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The solitary bolt on this route has been replaced.

Starting the route directly makes this about 5.9 in difficulty.