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Stalagasaurus 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Will Hair
Page Views: 2,311
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Brett Sherman strutting his stuff on Stalagasaurus...

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the finest moderate routes on the island--the “everyman’s route” of the stalactite world. 45 feet of climbing on some of the oddest terrain in the world. Too bad it's not 3X longer.

Location 

Go right from the Freedom Bar for perhaps 50 meters until you see a small cave-like roof low to the ground, formed under a rounded sloping ledge a few meters up. Just above this ledge a stalagmite points up off of a shelf towards the huge stalactite looming above it. Stalagasaurus climbs in from below and left onto the ledge, then up the right side of the stalagmite and stalactite with stems and every other tufa trick you can use to keep the climbing simple.

Protection 

4 good bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Stalagasaurus Slideshow Add Photo
It would have really sucked to be on this climb when that giant stalagtite came off....
It would have really sucked to be on this climb wh...
Jason B. from the UK crusing the upper section of Stalagasaurus.  Steep rock with big holds!
Jason B. from the UK crusing the upper section of ...
Toby Pritchard cruising up Stalagasaurus
Toby Pritchard cruising up Stalagasaurus

Comments on Stalagasaurus Add Comment
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By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Dec 14, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Unfortunately the big stalactite everyone stemmed on fell off the wall. The route is a bit harder now, closer to 6C+.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 28, 2007

yeah, without the stalagtite, it's a harder crux, but short. 6c+/7a, 2 move wondery type. but totally fun!
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 5, 2007

Does anyone know the story how it "fell". That thing was so cool!
By alabama slamma
Aug 26, 2009

If your tall you can stem through the crux, making if feel more like 5.9. Great climb
.
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Sep 19, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The stalactite fell 'cuz so many people stemmed to it.

I think the route sucks w/o the stalactite. It never would have been bolted that way w/o it... it's not really a classic anymore.

Babes in Thailand and Lal Bab are right next to it... and aren't really any harder.

Babes is the best easy route on the beach.
By Dean Kure
Feb 26, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

skip the crimp and do a huge dynamic move to the meat hook for a nice bouldery crux! soo fun