Stalagasaurus 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Will Hair |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Dec 14, 2006 |
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It would have really sucked to be on this climb wh...
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done to replace suspect bolts with titanium glue-ins.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description One of the finest moderate routes on the island--the “everyman’s route” of the stalactite world. 45 feet of climbing on some of the oddest terrain in the world. Too bad it's not 3X longer.
Location Go right from the Freedom Bar for perhaps 50 meters until you see a small cave-like roof low to the ground, formed under a rounded sloping ledge a few meters up. Just above this ledge a stalagmite points up off of a shelf towards the huge stalactite looming above it. Stalagasaurus climbs in from below and left onto the ledge, then up the right side of the stalagmite and stalactite with stems and every other tufa trick you can use to keep the climbing simple.
Protection 4 good bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Jason B. from the UK crusing the upper section of ...
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| Comments on Stalagasaurus |
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By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Dec 14, 2006
rating: 5.11c
| Unfortunately the big stalactite everyone stemmed on fell off the wall. The route is a bit harder now, closer to 6C+. |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 28, 2007
| yeah, without the stalagtite, it's a harder crux, but short. 6c+/7a, 2 move wondery type. but totally fun! |
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 5, 2007
| Does anyone know the story how it "fell". That thing was so cool! |
By alabama slamma
Aug 26, 2009
| If your tall you can stem through the crux, making if feel more like 5.9. Great climb
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Sep 19, 2010
rating: 5.11
| The stalactite fell 'cuz so many people stemmed to it.
I think the route sucks w/o the stalactite. It never would have been bolted that way w/o it... it's not really a classic anymore.
Babes in Thailand and Lal Bab are right next to it... and aren't really any harder.
Babes is the best easy route on the beach. |
By Dean Kure
Feb 26, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c
| skip the crimp and do a huge dynamic move to the meat hook for a nice bouldery crux! soo fun |
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