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Stairway To Heaven 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike Prince, Garth Briscoe
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 496
Submitted By: Mike Prince on Oct 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Mammut at the base of Stairway to Heaven. See the ...

Description 

A nice 45' route with many horizontal cracks, much like stairs. A "L" shaped tree coming out of the route around the mid point. Continues to a nice ledge at the base of some more opportunities.
There are two crux's, one at the base and one at the top.

Location 

About 22 minutes from the parking lot and just before the TP Wall. 150' past Rain Dance.

Protection 

Easily protected, first piece placement at about 15'. Small offset brass at the top. Can strap the tree at the mid. Not easily top roped.


Photos of Stairway To Heaven Slideshow Add Photo
Michael Gray leads Stairway to Heaven's first pitc...
Michael Gray leads Stairway to Heaven's first pitc...

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By Mike Prince
Oct 9, 2010

Stairway to Heaven appears to be the gateway to many more opportunities. There appears to be 250-300 ft more rock and many routes available.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 19, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Good route with a couple interesting, balancy moves. Pull up at the top is probably the crux.

I did a ton of cleaning on this a couple weeks ago so it's open for business. Climb on!

Pro placement at the top is dubious at best. Even after cleaning all available cracks it appears nothing good for nuts or tricams is available. The 00 might stick even better now, should have brough mine up to verify. But if a piece pops at the top the next piece is a ways down and with the ledgy nature of the route it won't be a smooth descent.
By Jay Harrison
Nov 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Top-out pro is now fine: I cleaned out the thin vertical crack toward the right side of the face, and it takes bomber brass nuts.
Michael Gray & I started on this route and climbed up the entire S. Corner Cliffs. Mike led up the 1st P then headed left to the anchors over Roofer Madness. I climbed up the short face above that and scrambled over a few steps, ending up directly above the top of the 2nd P. We scrambled left, up, and then right along a long ramp. At its end, I led through a short headwall then took a nice 5.7 crack line. Mike took the next lead, joining several crack systems on 5.8- climbing. I aided through a dirty 5.8ish headwall (will go free at 5.8), up a short ramp to an inside corner facing right. Up this, around an overhang to its left, and up easy slab to the top. 400' of climbing in 6 pitches, good tree belay ledges at the top of every one.
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 13, 2010

Only got pitch one but I'm looking forward to the extra pitches. First 15 ft is rough. Tougher for the vertically challenged.
By Jay Harrison
Nov 15, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

More pitches have been added:
P2 5.7 G 45': Climb the short face with the crack in it directly behind the belay tree. At its top, step left, past an outside corner to reach the overhanging, right-facing corner. Climb up a short way and follow a horizontal crack out left, around the corner. Ascend the face to a wooded ledge.
One may rappel from here, or downclimb the gully to (climber's) right.
P3 5.3 G 60' : Scramble up to an 8' tall bit of rock climbing, tunnel past a spruce tree and scramble past a boulder up to a short face with a diagonal crack rising from left to right.
P4 5.8 G 30' : Climb the diagonal crack 10' to a point where a long reach manages a left-facing flake. Climb the slab above to a tree belay. This pitch can be avoided by skirting the cliff to its left and walking up the ramp to the next belay tree.
Descent: Rappel.
P5 5.7+ PG 35': Climb a right-rising crack starting 8' to the left of the belay tree. When it pinches off, reach right to another crack and finish off with it, reaching yet another belay tree.
Descent: Rappel.
By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Mar 30, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

i did this one with mike and lead up past the finish anchors up the face then into the corner to a tree, it could become practical if it got cleaned up the climbing actually can be enjoyable after the anchor. its fun gunks like climbing for sure and very secure and i felt safe.
By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

did the first two pitches. pulling out of the corner on the second pitch is fun. thought the gear was real good. just had to take a little extra time placing cams because alot of the cracks flare. a fraction of an inch makes the difference between sketch and solid on many placements. G.