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Kid Fears Direct Start S 
Afternoon Delight T,S 
Balance Climb 7 T 
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 
Balance Climb 2 T 
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 
Balance Climb 4 T 
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 
Balance Climb 9 T 
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 
Dihedral T 
Edges to Ledges T 
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 
Gather No Moss T 
Kid Fears T 
Latest Edition T 
Limited Edition T 
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 
New Standards S 
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 
Overhang Approach T 
Slip and Slide T 
Special Edition T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Stannard's Crack T 
Three Cam Party T 
Two Man Party Blue S 
Two Man Party Green S 
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 
Two Man Party White S 
Two-Man Party Yellow S 
Unsorted Routes:

Stairway to Heaven 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Fortner 1977
Page Views: 1,159
Submitted By: UncleBen on Jun 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Climb runout ground to the first bolt in the water streak, then further through blank, balancy terrain and more gear to easy ground. Traverse right to the Afternoon Delight anchors. (Optional pitch goes up and exits right under the second overhang.)

Location 

The obvious, greasy water streak 20' left of the flake.

Protection 

bolt, TCUs, tricams, stoppers, a #1 C4 for a directional at the top.


Comments on Stairway to Heaven Add Comment
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By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Sep 5, 2011

This route is pretty serious. If you don't clip the chicken bolt on Variations, you would definitely die/ be maimed if you fell at the cruxy move before the bolt.
By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Dec 4, 2011

JW is right. Following the original route without the Variations bolt offers 5.7R/X to the first bolt, then a 5.9 crux, then some gear out left, followed by another long runout to easier ground.
By James Dowdy
Mar 23, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

A nice climb...yeah, it's kinda sketchy getting to the first bolt, but an R/X rating seems a bit much.

Have fun!

Jim

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