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Stairway to Heaven 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: M. Rangel, J. Apprill, L. Stern
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,399
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Feb 19, 2006

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Looking down off second pitch

Description 

The East face of Stairway to Heaven Dome is found at the east side of the Main Area. The crux comes at end of pitch one, pinching small nipples on a steep face with very thin feet. The second pitch difficulties come after traversing left to the finishing dike: reachy and good holds.

Protection 

Bolts, supplemented by small pro for pitch one, and bolts for pitch two. Rap the route with a single 70m rope. The anchors at the very top need to be lowered a couple feet to make the pull easier.


Photos of Stairway to Heaven Slideshow Add Photo
Lisa leading pitch 2 while Jon belays on a cool windy day.  The route is a clean dike, with steep cruxes and modern bolting unlike some of the original 1978 slab routes.  The route was abandoned; we found and used some of the original bolts on the first pitch.
Lisa leading pitch 2 while Jon belays on a cool wi...

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