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Stains Of The Stars 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Todd Swain, and Derrick, Mar. 1986
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO:

Description 

A short crux overhang leads to a 5.8-5.9 fist crack.

Location 

on the northwest end of the rock

Protection 

standard rack


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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 30, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought it was std practice on Mtn Proj to list the guidebook rating of the climb when entering it into the database. Vogel guide gives it .10a. Linfield seems to have stuck his own rating on the entry, ...isn't that what the consensus system is for?...and written a poor description to boot. Judging from the description, I question if he has ever climbed it. The roof is certainly not the crux.

Route follows an initial flaky slab (or cheat in from the right on a spike of rock and easier ground) to a small right facing dihedral turning to a slanting roof that offers underlinging. After pulling around the roof is a stance with a wide crack (tight fist widening to OW) rising above. Crux is getting off the stance via a fist jam and getting established in the wide crack, there are a couple of face holds to help. No pump factor, roof liebacking much easier than it looks, a very short crux.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 30, 2007

While I'll agree Linfield's route descriptions are as short as they come, he has climbed over 1500 routes in the monument alone.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 31, 2007

...not to mention 100 routes in a day - not too shabby! (Click on "Joshua Tree Big Day" for the full story).
By Murf
Jan 31, 2007

...All of which means he probably can't remember one route from another. Also, we're talking about a Todd^2 route, it is probably a center for grainulous energy and one move wonderhood with scary fall potential up high.

--locker style edit-for Mike--
Its not that, but you get Gordex and Swain both on the FA, and there is some serious potential for todd effect ( the potential is squared actually, as noted above). As for Roger, and in the interest of self disclosure, I'm pretty sure I've done the route, but remember nothing about it. Send me an email 'bout how the trip went after I saw you.