|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Dan Durland and Steph Johnson, 1992|
|Submitted By:||Jamie Estep on Mar 4, 2011|
|Comments on Stack Factor||Add Comment|
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By Jamie Estep
From: Crested Butte, CO
Mar 4, 2011
I wasn't sure on the actual grade or name of this climb. I worked on it for a few months in the summer of 2000. I've never even seen another person on it other than myself. I haven't been on it for 11 years now, so my memory is a little fuzzy if there even was a notable crux. Sustained and bouldery all the way up. It also wasn't climbed much at all then, so there was quite a bit of dirt on some of the key holds.
I would conservatively grade it at 12b/12c. It may be harder or it may just be so pumpy and awkward that it's actually a lower grade. The awkward falls don't help psychologically either.
If anyone knows the name and/or grade, please feel free to correct it.
I would also love to know who did the first ascent. I know Pete Peacock and a few others had been working on some hard routes on the second buttress around this time, so I assumed one of them put this up but have no idea.
By steph johnson
From: Roanoke (DENTON)
Mar 28, 2011
|Stack Factor saw its first ascent back in 1992, with Dan Durland and Steph Johnson equipping and sending the line; however, Matt Laggis should be given credit for the vision of seeing the line. Also, .12a is the consensus seeing that Bob Bernholzts cruised the line and RVA trumped that by setting the draws, and then downclimbed the route removing the draws in fine form. If you need more direction about current routes in the Gunnison area, consider using the Gunnison Rock guidebook for direction, or, consult Brad Tomlin for more accurate info. Cheers, Steph Johnson.|