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This is a set of 3 canyons that are the drainages of the South, Middle, and North forks of the St. Vrain River. The greatest bulk of the climbing to date is in the South Fork. The rock is granitic and at times on the coarser side. There are a variety of routes here, some traditional, some sport, even some ice/mixed. Most of the routes are shorter here, maybe up to 5 pitches in length. There is still a decent amount of rock to explore here. While there is some friable rock in places, the bulk is good quality. Poison ivy does tend to flourish in spots here, so the sensitive should be aware.
Most will drive up US 36 or CO 66 west to Lyons. From there, the forks diverge. The South and Middle Forks are accessed off of CO 7. The North Fork is accessed off of US 36.
With the help and prompting of John Marsella, we'll list these crags going uphill from CO 7 & US 36.
403 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in St. Vrain Canyons
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for St. Vrain Canyons:
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Handcrack-a-rete 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Casual Corner 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
The Enthusiast aka Guided by Voices 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 130' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Rapids Rock
Panic in the Gray Room 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Sunshine Dihedral 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 120' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Lost in Time 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Upside The Cranium 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Life After James 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches, 220' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall
Featured Route For St. Vrain Canyons
The Enthusiast aka Guided by Voices 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a CO : Lyons : ... : Rapids Rock
This is an excellent route. It is the first line I ever noticed driving up the canyon. The approach is short but undesireable which detracts a little from the quality, but this is the SSV! I give it three stars comparing it to other routes in the SSV canyon. Less if you compare it to Boulder Canyon but....From the top of Rapids Rock, you can reach the lone bolt on top by walking toward the river, and stepping around and down a few piled boulders. Back up the bolt with a meduim hex or larger Cama...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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