This is a set of 3 canyons that are the drainages of the South, Middle, and North forks of the St. Vrain River. The greatest bulk of the climbing to date is in the South Fork. The rock is granitic and at times on the coarser side. There are a variety of routes here, some traditional, some sport, even some ice/mixed. Most of the routes are shorter here, maybe up to 5 pitches in length. There is still a decent amount of rock to explore here. While there is some friable rock in places, the bulk is good quality. Poison ivy does tend to flourish in spots here, so the sensitive should be aware.
Most will drive up US 36 or CO 66 west to Lyons. From there, the forks diverge. The South and Middle Forks are accessed off of CO 7. The North Fork is accessed off of US 36.
With the help and prompting of John Marsella, we'll list these crags going uphill from CO 7 & US 36.
381 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in St. Vrain Canyons
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for St. Vrain Canyons:
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Handcrack-a-rete 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Hollow Man 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 195' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Casual Corner 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Panic in the Gray Room 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Sunshine Dihedral 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 120' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Lost in Time 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Upside The Cranium 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Life After James 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches, 220' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall
Featured Route For St. Vrain Canyons
Brother From Another Planet 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c CO : Lyons : ... : River Wall II
This superb power route climbs the third route from the left side of the crag. Reach the base by rock hopping across the river just below the Buttonrock Resevoir spillway. The furtherst left two lines are New Horizon and Lost Horizon, a bolted arete and an insane finger crack, respectively.The next line, BFAP, climbs the right side of this constant angle overhanging section of stone on unrelenting powerful slopers and edges. One leaves the security of the initial ramp and right cor...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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