This is a set of 3 canyons that are the drainages of the South, Middle, and North forks of the St. Vrain River. The greatest bulk of the climbing to date is in the South Fork. The rock is granitic and at times on the coarser side. There are a variety of routes here, some traditional, some sport, even some ice/mixed. Most of the routes are shorter here, maybe up to 5 pitches in length. There is still a decent amount of rock to explore here. While there is some friable rock in places, the bulk is good quality. Poison ivy does tend to flourish in spots here, so the sensitive should be aware.
Most will drive up US 36 or CO 66 west to Lyons. From there, the forks diverge. The South and Middle Forks are accessed off of CO 7. The North Fork is accessed off of US 36.
With the help and prompting of John Marsella, we'll list these crags going uphill from CO 7 & US 36.
Browse More Classics in St. Vrain Canyons
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for St. Vrain Canyons:
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) 5.6 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Panic in the Gray Room 5.10a Sport, TR, 1 pitch South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Temptation Arete 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 130 feet South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress
Featured Route For St. Vrain Canyons
Lost in Time 5.10b CO : Lyons : ... : The Coliseum
The second pitch of Lost in Time is one of the best of its grade for the caynon. The quality is on par with "Upside the Cranium" and "Panic in the Gray Room".P1: The first pitch starts on the blunt arete to the right of the obvious large tree about 80 feet up the wall. Place a small cam at the start and clip two bolts along the arete. Low angle climbing and one bolt leads to the tree belay. Let your partner lead this one. (5.9, 80 feet)P2: The money pitch.... Follow...[more] Browse More Classics in CO