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This is a set of 3 canyons that are the drainages of the South, Middle, and North forks of the St. Vrain River. The greatest bulk of the climbing to date is in the South Fork. The rock is granitic and at times on the coarser side. There are a variety of routes here, some traditional, some sport, even some ice/mixed. Most of the routes are shorter here, maybe up to 5 pitches in length. There is still a decent amount of rock to explore here. While there is some friable rock in places, the bulk is good quality. Poison ivy does tend to flourish in spots here, so the sensitive should be aware.
Most will drive up US 36 or CO 66 west to Lyons. From there, the forks diverge. The South and Middle Forks are accessed off of CO 7. The North Fork is accessed off of US 36.
With the help and prompting of John Marsella, we'll list these crags going uphill from CO 7 & US 36.
391 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for St. Vrain Canyons:
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Handcrack-a-rete 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Casual Corner 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
The Enthusiast aka Guided by Voices 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 130' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Rapids Rock
Panic in the Gray Room 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Sunshine Dihedral 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 120' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Lost in Time 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Upside The Cranium 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Life After James 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches, 220' South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall
Featured Route For St. Vrain Canyons
Telegraph Road 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c CO : Lyons : ... : December Wall
This route is named for one of my favorite songs. I guess I just notice the bane of creation as I walk up there.The route begins just to the right of Life After James on the arete of a left-facing dihedral.P1: 90 feet, 7 bolts, 5.11-, A few nuts can be placed. Stem out on the arete from the slab, clip a bolt, fire up to the second bolt and pull around (11-). Climb up to the double bulges and mantle through each (10). A longer draw on bolt 3 will reduce drag. Bear hug and sidepull u...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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