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St. Vitus' Dance 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 2,181
Submitted By: Eric Fjellanger on Oct 6, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: John leading St. Vitus' Dance

Annual Raptor Closure at Bridge Creek Wall area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Who would expect to find a wild overhanging sport route in this area?

Scramble to the top of a block to clip the first bolt under the overhang. From here, big juggy moves take you up and left (some heel hooking chops might come in handy here). You find yourself under a massive hueco into which you can crawl for a rest before popping back out onto the overhanging wall, and up over the lip.

Location 

Left of Z-Crack, around the corner and a bit uphill.

Protection 

3 bolts provide good protection. An alternate start could be protected with some trad gear.


Photos of St. Vitus' Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This little guy was curled up right at the base of...
This little guy was curled up right at the base of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug on the beginning of St Vitus' Dance
Doug on the beginning of St Vitus' Dance
Rock Climbing Photo: St Vitus' Dance
BETA PHOTO: St Vitus' Dance
Rock Climbing Photo: Unique juggy climbing on St. Vitus' Dance
BETA PHOTO: Unique juggy climbing on St. Vitus' Dance

Comments on St. Vitus' Dance Add Comment
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By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
May 13, 2016

What a blast! You may want to sling the hueco between the 2nd and 3rd bolts to mitigate the run-out for the second. Horizontal through most of the climb with unique rests, even a no hands rest before the final moves.

Like Megan Parish said, "5.10d my ass!". Certainly feels harder!

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