St. Vitus' Dance
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BETA PHOTO: John leading St. Vitus' Dance
Who would expect to find a wild overhanging sport route in this area?
Scramble to the top of a block to clip the first bolt under the overhang. From here, big juggy moves take you up and left (some heel hooking chops might come in handy here). You find yourself under a massive hueco into which you can crawl for a rest before popping back out onto the overhanging wall, and up over the lip.
Left of Z-Crack, around the corner and a bit uphill.
3 bolts provide good protection. An alternate start could be protected with some trad gear.
This little guy was curled up right at the base of...
Doug on the beginning of St Vitus' Dance
BETA PHOTO: St Vitus' Dance
BETA PHOTO: Unique juggy climbing on St. Vitus' Dance
From: Wenatchee, WA
May 13, 2016
What a blast! You may want to sling the hueco between the 2nd and 3rd bolts to mitigate the run-out for the second. Horizontal through most of the climb with unique rests, even a no hands rest before the final moves.
Like Megan Parish said, "5.10d my ass!". Certainly feels harder!