St. Valentines Day Massacre 5.8-
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Kurt Schroeder, Linda Lynch |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Vincent Greene on Feb 14, 2004 |
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St Valentines Day Massacre Topo
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Description This is currently the rightmost route on the same wall as Mr Meanor. Start right of a large flat boulder and a few feet right of the first bolt. Move up to clip the first bolt, then follow an obvious white streak/ridge. Go straight up after clipping the fourth bolt. Clip the fifth and last bolt and scramble up slightly right 15-20 feet to the chains.
Protection 5 bolts and chain anchor. Small cams or stoppers can be used between bolts or above fifth bolt if desired.
if the first 15 feet of this route went on for 100...
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theres a rodent of some type that eats at the yucc...
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tricky start easy after that
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can sub gear for bolts
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super fun climb
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| Comments on St. Valentines Day Massacre |
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By Vincent Greene
Feb 15, 2004
rating: 5.8-
| The first 35 feet of this is better than any of the other moderates in this area. Lots of nice moves. I only wish it would go on longer. |
By Vincent Greene
Mar 16, 2004
rating: 5.8-
| If you are in the mood for a harder start, you can traverse left up the white streak rather than starting right of the first bolt - that bumps the rating about half a grade. |
By Vincent Greene
Jan 31, 2005
rating: 5.8-
| The first two bolts have been removed by Ben Burnham by request. The moves can be covered by small stoppers or very small cams. |
By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Jan 31, 2005
rating: 5.7+
| FWIW, I'm the one who mentioned to Ben that I thought some of the bolts on this route were unnecessary.
Thanks, Ben, for being willing to go back and take another look at the route! |
By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 30, 2006
rating: 5.7+
| Why is Ben being consulted regarding the necessity of bolts on a route that he didn't put up? Doesn't sound kosher to me... |
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2006
rating: 5.8-
| I was at this wall in June, 2006 and all the bolts were there. Good climb. |
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.7+
| fun climb, enjoy the dirt when it slabs out at the top. |
By kurt schroeder
Nov 30, 2008
| Ben, Lynda and I put this up in stages, but together. Ben really liked this route and I agree with Vince: if only it would go on.............. Originally it did start right, never liked that. The direct start Ben finally bought into. kas |
By Micah C
Dec 1, 2008
rating: 5.8
| As of today, the entire climb is bolted pretty well. It may be hard to spot all the bolts from the ground, but it felt fine to me with no gear. |
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.7
| 5 bolts no gear supplement needed. If you're ticking the formation why not? Besides the left leaning crack makes for an interesting feature to follow.
Nice. |
By CALEB ANDERSON
Oct 11, 2009
| I led this climb today, and it had all the bolts. Very fun climb, especially in the novice level. |
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Oct 14, 2009
| if this route was taller and didnt taper out to a scramble it would be majestic , fun starting moves and holds here |
By Aaron Marks
Jan 18, 2010
| which route is one to the left of St. Valentine's day massacre? |
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 29, 2011
rating: 5.8-
| No extra gear needed. Easier than it looks and FUN!!! |
By KristinaB
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 29, 2011
rating: 5.8-
| Loved this climb! Great to follow the white streak. The route is easier than it looks from the ground as the bottom bolts have thin but very nicely textured holds. Cannot see the fifth bolt until you are close to it. The climbing above the last bolt is run-out but easy climbing gets one to the chains B4 you know it! |
By Myk
From: tucson, az
Jan 1, 2012
| Added Mussy hooks to anchors |
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