St. Stephen follows a wandering line immediately left of the huge left-facing corner system dominating the right side of the wall. Not sustained enough to be classic, it offers some decent moderate climbing in a peaceful high setting. Approach as for Jubilant Song. This following route description is from the first ascent, which was done a few days after Solar Slab.Pitch 1 -- Follow thin cracks up the varnished, pretty slabs at the base of the wall. Belay at a platform on a prominent ramp.Pitch 2 -- Continue up the ramp to belay in the main corner (5.8).Pitch 3 -- Instead of following the corner, climb a tight, left-slanting crack that splits the vertical face above (5.8). This crack is a key feature of the route, visible from below.Pitches 4-8 -- Two easy pitches go out onto the face to the left. Thin face climbing (5.8) bypasses a huge bulge on the left. The final lead goes up obvious rock to the top.Descend via an easy hike.
"A standard selection of nuts"
BETA PHOTO: An overview of Saint Stephen. The original route ...
Joe Herbst on pitch 2, St. Stephen FA (January 197...
Looking down at the upper slabs. The climbing in ...
The right-hand variation on pitch 2 goes directly ...
Good slab climbing on the first pitch of Saint Ste...
Larry leads up the second pitch. This pitch had s...
|By Larry DeAngelo|
Jun 14, 2008
"A standard selection of nuts" may have worked well for the old masters, but a big cam (#4 Camalot or bigger) is unlikely to go unused in the slanting pitch 3 crack.
Also- the "thin 5.8 face climbing" high on the route is probably optional. I don't recall any tricky moves to access the upper slabs; not even any tricky routefinding.
|By George Wilson|
From: Las Vegas
Jan 6, 2009
Fun route...A bit loose in area's, didn't like the solid sounding hold I took off, nothing to worry about though! I only followed the route and didn't feel anything on the upper slabs deserve above 5.5. A #5 protected pitch 3 somewhat well, a #6 or a big bro would help ease the mind. Straightforward as it get though...If ya bring a 50m, the belays work out, just as you're screaming "2 feet" your leader is screaming back "off belay"! I suspect a 60 or 70 would put you on better belay ledges. There are some potential pendulums for the follower on easier terrain. Good route!!