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The Optimator
Routes Sorted
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar 
90 proof 
Anunnaki 
Baroque 
Beer Run 
Bow Flex 
Brodie Machine 
Casey's Route 
Charlie's Pillar 
Chick Flick 
Choss Eliminate 
Ditch 'em 
Double Bock 
Gunning For Gonzo 
Hayutake 
Hefe Weissen 
Jews On Crack 
Jive Crack 
Kitchen Sink 
Lady Pillar 
Long Island Iced Ted 
Miller Genuine Draft 
Mudslide 
Neat 
Optimator 
Pat's Blue Ribbon 
Ram Implosion Wing 
Road Soda 
Sardikar 
Season of the Worm, The 
Soul Fire 
St. Pauli Girl 
Two Scoops 
Unsorted Routes:

St. Pauli Girl 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Yoav Altman, Ilona Barash, Ian Hey
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 369
Submitted By: Crotch Robbins on Mar 27, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Ian Hey following St. Pauli Girl

Description 

This route starts the same as Charlie's Pillar but instead of continuing up along the flake to climbers left, chimney the other way out towards Neat, then ascend the wide crack that forms the right side of the pillar up and over to the Charlie's Pillar anchor station. The route is better than it looks, and requires a variety of wide techniques in a short climb. Protection is good with off-the-shelf pro.


Location 

Just left of Neat, start as for Charlie's Pillar but take the wide crack on the right side of the pillar up and over to the Charlie's Pillar anchors.


Protection 

This is one of those rare IC climbs where a rack of singles will suffice. I used singles from #0.4 to #6 BD C4 with a runner or two to extend a couple of cams. Bolted rap station on the other side of the final pinnacle.



Photos of St. Pauli Girl Slideshow Add Photo
St. Pauli Girl ascends the chimney to wide crack in this corner
BETA PHOTO: St. Pauli Girl ascends the chimney to wide crack i...
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