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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 
90 proof T 
Annunaki T 
Baroque T 
Beer Run T 
Bow Flex T 
Brodie Machine T 
Casey's Route T 
Charlie's Pillar T 
Chick Flick T 
Choss Eliminate TR 
Ditch 'em T 
Double Bock T 
Gunning For Gonzo T 
Hayutake T 
Hefe Weissen T 
Jews On Crack T 
Jive Crack T 
Kitchen Sink T 
Lady Pillar T 
Long Island Iced Ted T 
Miller Genuine Draft T 
Mudslide T 
Neat T 
Optimator T 
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 
Ram Implosion Wing T 
Road Soda T 
Sardikar T 
Season of the Worm, The T 
Soul Fire T 
St. Pauli Girl T 
Two Scoops T 
Unsorted Routes:

St. Pauli Girl 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Yoav Altman, Ilona Barash, Ian Hey
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 401
Submitted By: Crotch Robbins on Mar 27, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Ian Hey following St. Pauli Girl

Description 

This route starts the same as Charlie's Pillar but instead of continuing up along the flake to climbers left, chimney the other way out towards Neat, then ascend the wide crack that forms the right side of the pillar up and over to the Charlie's Pillar anchor station. The route is better than it looks, and requires a variety of wide techniques in a short climb. Protection is good with off-the-shelf pro.

Location 

Just left of Neat, start as for Charlie's Pillar but take the wide crack on the right side of the pillar up and over to the Charlie's Pillar anchors.

Protection 

This is one of those rare IC climbs where a rack of singles will suffice. I used singles from #0.4 to #6 BD C4 with a runner or two to extend a couple of cams. Bolted rap station on the other side of the final pinnacle.


Photos of St. Pauli Girl Slideshow Add Photo
St. Pauli Girl ascends the chimney to wide crack in this corner
BETA PHOTO: St. Pauli Girl ascends the chimney to wide crack i...

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