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St. Maarten/St. Martin

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Coralita Boulders 
Dawn Beach Estates Crag 
Orient Bay Boulders 
Oyster Pond  

St. Maarten/St. Martin 


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Location: 18.0427, -63.0547 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,662
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: ChrisZ on Mar 30, 2008
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This is me falling, right at the base of the big f...

Description 

St. Martin is an island in the Carribean split by the Dutch (Sint Maarten) and the French (Saint Martin). The south half of the island is Dutch, while the North half is French. The main towns are Philipsburg (Dutch) and Marigot (French). This is a fairly popular spot for tourists, especially as a cruise ship stop. If you happen to be a cruiser stopping here, bring your bouldering shoes and a chalk bag.

While this probably isn't a climbing destination, I've heard there are some routes on the island. There are certainly boulders to explore. If you know of any longer routes, post'em up!


Getting There 

Boat or airplane.


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For St. Maarten/St. Martin
This is a route beta of one possible Dog Nose route.

Dog Nose 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13  North America : St. Maarten/St. Martin : Dawn Beach Estates Crag
Description Crux: A sloper hold overhang with a left foot jam to right foot high step over the key arete. The crack and arete are the main technical problems on the small wall. A fun climb Location This route is jutting out into the center looking at the wall from the bottom of the DBE crag. Scramble to the wall then climb up. You need to rappel into the crag, then top-roping is the recommended climb. Protection Bring some cams 4-6 for anchoring at the top. A 4 foot sling or cordalette for equal...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of St. Maarten/St. Martin Slideshow Add Photo
This is another boulder at the top of Oyster pond. It has several route possibilities and nice flat area around it. Nothing spectacularly hard has been established....yet.
This is another boulder at the top of Oyster pond....
Another shot taken at the Oyster pond boulder.
Another shot taken at the Oyster pond boulder.
Comments on St. Maarten/St. Martin Add Comment
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By Bryson Slothower
Oct 20, 2008

I spent several months on St. Martin and explored several crags on the Dutch side. There was some definite potential on the sharp limestone but no sign of any route development.

By Stephen Lloyd
Mar 29, 2010

I lived on SXM for several years, there is one bolted route on the French side, approx 40 ft tall, probably only a 5.8, but with great views and good exposure. Its alongside the road that runs to the top of Pic Paradis. You sort of have to walk through the bush to get there, we used to maintain the trail but it's most likely overgrown by now. Its approx half a mile from the top, on your left as you're driving up, you can see the crag sticking out above the tree's on your way up. You park at one of the pull off areas slightly above the trailhead. Watch out for Hornets! We used to bring hornet spray and the FA of the day would climb with the spray to clear out the holes. The bolts are pretty new and in great condition. Bring about 7 quickdraws.

By Stephen Lloyd
Mar 29, 2010

There is also a great little climb at the top of Pelican, just underneath the water-tower. You drive up the hill and park in the dirt nextto the water tower, then walk down and around as if you were going to look at the lagoon. Its a steep overhanging crag that has a few route possibilities. We only used to top-rope it, there is a wooden post and a few good rocks to triangulate off of at the top. There's a crack approach, approx 5.9, and some more direct routes that are 5.9 plus.
Its an awesome quick setup and climb kinda place, perfect for an after work session. Since the Simpson Bay lights shine up onto the face its really good for evening/night climbs too.
I've got pics from our climbing days, will have to get them off the hard drive and stick them up here. There is one pic here www.zazzle.com/taoowl from a t-shirt we had made. The pic is taken at night at the Pelican spot.
You'll need some fairly long slings (approx 2x 15 ft) to set up the top rope. There were sometimes hornets here too.

By Stephen Lloyd
Mar 29, 2010

Another good spot, without doubt the best place we climbed on SXM is at Pointe Blanche. You can't miss the cliff when you drive up to the little rock beach at Pointe Blanche. Drive up the road that appears to wind up to the top, but park as directly below the cliff face as you can. There is a little pull off zone on a hairpin bend if I remember correctly.
There are several top-rope anchors (double bolts) at the top of the cliff, some are a little rusty, but we replaced what we could.
There are also loads of tree's and large rocks to set up top-ropes from.
There is an insane offwidth, got to be 5.11 plus, over to the edge of the crag away from the ocean. There are chains at the top.
To get to the top you basically scramble up the ocean side of the cliff, follow the bottom of the crag around until you see an easy enough scramble, no ropes required. Then go up to the top and make your way along the edge looking for the bolts.
The newest bolts up there are above the largest and most overhanging face on the cliff. This area is yet to be finished. We've made it up about half way and run out of steam, so would be awesome to hear of someone climbing that!
There are some very cool beginner routes around the ocean side, nice exposure but all around 5.7. The rocks are a little sharp, but usually clean and not very brittle at all. We cleared away most of the loose junk but its likely there will be new loose bits here and there, so rappel down first to have a look.

You'll need a few slings, 2 quickdraws, or a few carabiners and chalk.

Expect: edging, some hornets (not usually too many but bring some spray) the offwidth has some mammoth smearing sections. If you fall early there is a good chance you will swing into the nearby bushes, so be mindful when belaying to get your partner down quickly.

The face is approx 60ft at its highest and offers some pretty amazing views.
I'll post pics when I get a chance.

By WillH
Feb 20, 2011

Hi Guys,

Im keen to get out and do some climbing on the island. I dont have any gear with me though (can probably borrow a harness from work mind). anybody on the island want a partner to go climbing with? or is there a good place to buy/rent some gear around, i'm going to assume it will have to be shipped in?

Cheers

Will

By Justin.Hall
From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Jun 3, 2012

I just got back from ST. Martin and went DWS. On the Dutch side when you fly in you can see on the left two caves that are on the sea cliff side. I went and explored these caves the water was deep and it was right off of the airplane beach were people watch the planes land. The DWS is two caves and very sharp rock lots of potential for over hanging routes. the major cave that looked appealing was the cave that had a fence on top with a hotel right over the cave as well.