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St. Francois State Park

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St. Francois State Park  

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Location: 37.9721, -90.5118 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,603
Administrators: Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nate K. on Mar 29, 2012
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Shady location overlooking the St. Francois River. I've only been twice, but haven't run into any other climbers, and have only seen two hikers.

The rock quality is extremely poor on most parts of the bluff, but head down the bluff line and there are two seperate areas with bolted routes you will find. The farthest area has three bolted routes with bullet-hard rock and one great looking trad climb up a dihedral.

Getting There 

From the North-head south on Hwy 67 to the St. Francois State Park exit on the left near Bonne Terre.

Once in the park, head to the bottom of the first hill (you're on the hill when you enter the park) and take a right. It's a one-way loop that you follow to the very back and park near the picnic tables. When facing the river, the bluff is on your right. Head up to the face, and follow it 'til you see bolts!

The approach is fantastic- only a five minute (tops) hike in with easy access to the river for a cool-down!

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 12.5 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for St. Francois State Park:
Unknown   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Browse More Classics in St. Francois State Park

Featured Route For St. Francois State Park
higher bolts dont have draws hanging, so they are ...

Unknown 2 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  MO : A. Eastern Missouri : St. Francois State Park
As with the other routes in this area, the first fifteen feet are the crux. The holds are incredibly small crimps with tiny nubbins for feet. Overall, though, beautiful moves to an easy finish!***Note, I have no original beta on these routes, so I have chosen not to make up a name for something I was not the first to climb!***...[more]   Browse More Classics in MO

Comments on St. Francois State Park Add Comment
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By Tom Pittman VIII
From: Lake Stevens
Sep 9, 2015
We checked in with the Ranger and signed a liability form he also wanted to "take a look at our gear" he pretty much just checked to see if we had helmets (honestly didn't seem like hed ever even watched someone climb). The approach is short but a nasty sliding slope where you gain 3 feet and slide 1 foot back. Soaking in the river was a fun way to cool off afterwards.
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