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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Harrison and Stuberg
Page Views: 668
Submitted By: pete cogan on Jan 23, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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BETA PHOTO: Kashmir and Srinagar.

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


Srinagar is in the Kashmir Area, just uphill from the Cirque of Cracks and before you reach Xanadu. It is the crack just left of Kashmir, an 11b with a very thin crack that is hard to miss.

This would be an excellent first trad lead: the pro is abundant, the climbing is straightforward, and the route is short. It would also be a good climb for a first time follower.

It's a bit dirty, but I think it's worth doing once. Easy walk off.


Excellent Pro. Bring a set of cams up to #2. Huge tree at the top for anchors.

Photos of Srinagar Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the climb.  Kashmir is the crack to the right.
Starting the climb. Kashmir is the crack to the r...
At the crux.
At the crux.
Comments on Srinagar Add Comment
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By Kevin Craig
Jul 21, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Too short and, as noted, bit dirty since it doesn't get climbed much, but definitely worth the effort if you're in the area and are a 5.6 - 5.8 leader. Lots of options at the bottom to make it easier (start up the big flake on the right) or more interesting (jam straight up the crack). Great gear, nothing bigger than a #1 Camalot. Crux is the slot 1/2 way up; lots of ways to get through it - all well protected.

Nov 9, 2008

I agree with the others but as an aside to the 'great for a new leader' comments, there is a lot of loose rock, some of it pretty big, on the 20' or so scramble to the tree that is the only real anchor possibility after exiting the dihedral.

By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Mar 4, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I'd've only given it 1 * if the crack hadn't've smelled so good. My fingers came out infused with the refreshing aroma of pine and juniper. I could make a bundle cleaning out the crack and making soap scented with the detritus - the crack is a little too shallow anyways. No, I'm not a crazy nut.

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This thing actually climbs way better than it looks. Pretty consistent and well-protected 5.7 climbing the whole way, with some good jams. The only big downside was the abundance of shrubbery. I felt like I had a bush in my face the whole time. That's what she said.