Squirrely man  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Nathan Brown, Tony Spainhour New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  nbrown on Mar 8, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Pitch 1. P-2 makes it way into the upper righthan...

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a good variation start to Oasis, with slightly harder climbing than the traditional first 2 pitches. The first pitch climbs a fun 5.10 slab to a moderate crack through the small roof. It is well worth climbing if you're cragging, or as a warm up pitch.

P-1 Climb the short right facing corner to some gear. Move up the slabby face past 2 bolts and a good rp to the right facing corner/roof. Pull roof and belay on left side of ledge at 2 bolt belay.

P-2 Climb up and left past 3 bolts to a short and easy left facing corner. At the top of corner continue up the right-hand groove passing 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor up and right of the groove. Note: It is easiest to move around the bulge to the left before moving back into the right-hand groove. The anchors are slightly higher than the Oasis anchors.

Merge into the traverse pitch of Oasis

Location 

Between Oasis and Dolphin Graveyard

Protection 

Normal LK rack

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Tony on pitch one.