Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Dark Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Control 
Arrowhead Arete (SDS) 
Arrowhead Arete Low 
Balancing Act 
Bearded Lady (aka Hand Crack) 
Big Kid Tantrum 
Blood Moon 
Breashear's Crack II 
Cannibal Girl 
Coaches Corner 
Deal Jams  
Dionysian Ecstasy  
Done Deal Dyno 
Double Arete 
Easy Cracks 
Face right of HighGravity 
From Here Or There 
God Created Crimps 
Gypsy Devil 
Hall & Oates 
High Gravity aka Slots 
Ice Truck Killer 
In the Beginning 
Known Secret 
Left Crack, The 
Little Ledges 
Low Hanging Melons 
MoSo Roof 
Mosquito Frito 
Mr. Wiggles and Mr. Giggles 
Part of A Warmup Traverse 
Path of Most Resistance 
Proper English 
Return to Dirt 
Riddler, The 
Right of Gypsy Devil 
Rupture - V5-V7 
Slapper, The 
Southeast Arete 
Squirming Coil 
Super Slab 
Sweet Nectar aka Meet George Jetson 
Tofurkey Traverse 
Tree Slab Dyno 
Unknown -Warm up (The Jake)  
Unsorted Routes:

Squirming Coil 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Brian Kimball
Page Views: 5,633
Submitted By: Jay Samuelson on Oct 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Wiley Evans styling on "The Squirming Coil.&q...


Start out matched on the low sloping rail. Figure out how to get your ass off the ground, and reach up high with your right for the crimp/pinch. Move up to the next crimp, and reposition the feet to move up to the slopey jugs above. From here, you keep moving straight out the prow of the arete, using a large rail on the north face of the boulder. Move the feet up, and figure out how to hit the lip with your left. After that it's pretty much over; you move left along the lip until you reach the jug at the left end, pull straight up from here.


Basically the first real problem you come across on your left, heading up the trail. Right after you come around the corner up the rock staircase, head up the steep dirt trail for maybe ten more feet. You really can't miss it.


A couple of pads, and a spotter for the moves out the prow of the arete would be nice.

Photos of Squirming Coil Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up the top.
Finishing up the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Squirming Coil.  -Joe Haught.
Squirming Coil. -Joe Haught.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."
Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."
Rock Climbing Photo: sweet all around
BETA PHOTO: sweet all around
Rock Climbing Photo: Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."
Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."
Rock Climbing Photo: About to move off the right hand gaston.
About to move off the right hand gaston.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."
Wiley Evans is the "Squirming Coil."
Rock Climbing Photo: Maybe if I squint harder I'll send it this time......
Maybe if I squint harder I'll send it this time......

Comments on Squirming Coil Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tyson Ferryman
From: Bailey, CO
Oct 31, 2012

This has a "new" hold on the right. Looks like part of a flake broke off to create a gaston for the right hand. This allows one to go up left hand first, then gaston right, then bump left up. Still seems V5ish but maybe easier off the deck.
By Bern C.
Jul 7, 2013

I was up there today, and it looks like someone chipped a new foot hold on the left once you get off the deck. Unfortunate but the fun part is figuring out the first few moves of the ground anyways.
By Adam Keifenheim
Nov 23, 2014
rating: V5 6C

This is one of the area classics. The two crimps on the arete are pretty slopey and feel a lot better in colder temps.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!