Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Trailhead Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brother Toad S 
Hemp Seeds Sowed S 
Mother Lode T,S 
Other Road, The T,S 
Otis S 
Pirate Mode T,S 
Rad Lad S 
Squid Kid S 
Temporary Change of Season T,S 
Trooper Traverse T 

Squid Kid 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,882
Submitted By: Edward Jenner on Sep 14, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Kyle on Squid Kid.

Description 

Directly opposite the trail where it meets the rock. There will most likely be someone on it! Very popular route and it's as good as it looks from the ground. Varied climbing past 10 well positioned bolts gains a ledge with 2 bolts. Nothing too strenuous but a lot of fun. You will need 2 ropes to get down!

Eds. You can identify the route, left of the large trees, with a rightward pointing flake at about 6 bolts up. You can continue with Otis 5.11a, 9 bolts for 2nd pitch & going left an 11c for a 3rd pitch.


Protection 

12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. ~120 feet.



Photos of Squid Kid Slideshow Add Photo
This picture was taken right after we got off rappel.  I have placed an X where the crux section was for me.
BETA PHOTO: This picture was taken right after we got off rapp...
Squid Kid's identifying flake.
Squid Kid's identifying flake.
Contemplating the tricky move up to the crux.
Contemplating the tricky move up to the crux.
Kyle on Squid Kid.
Kyle on Squid Kid.
Wishing the right hand was better at the crux move right to the flake jug.
Wishing the right hand was better at the crux move...
At the flake crux of Squid Kid.
At the flake crux of Squid Kid.
Comments on Squid Kid Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 30, 2013
By Rex Mammel
May 6, 2002

Finest sport 10a in Colorado, if you do the second pitch 11a you need draws for 10 bolts and 2 anchors (not 7 bolts as listed in the guide. There is also a third pitch at 11c which requires three small stoppers or TCUs.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Jun 14, 2004

Long sport climb with fun moves. Slab to undercling to face moves. I rappelled with a 70m rope, but advise two 60m ropes because one 70m rope was barely long enough. Worth doing again.

By Rob Dillon
Sep 21, 2004

Wow, the best sport .10a in the state. Don't know about that but I do know that I end up doing this route just about every time I go to the Monitor. Mostly 5.8 with a couple thinker moves, well bolted, scenic belay ledge to watch the sun go down over the Pass. My 70m gets me down no problem; with a 60 I rap (don't lower!) and downclimb the bushy ledges up and left.

By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Jun 2, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Love this route, do it everytime I'm in the area. IMHO this one gets all the stars. As mentioned previously, a rap with a 60m gets you back on safe ground.

By Legs Magillicutty
From: Littleton
Jul 3, 2006

Great route. To the poster above me, I think you meant to say a rap with 2 60m ropes gets you down safe. Rapping with 1 60m rope leaves you right around the 2nd bolt on the way down.

By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Jul 5, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I wouldn't lower off a 60m, but I have climbed this route several times, and the first time I rapped with 2 60m and every time since then I have rapped with 1 60m, and it has gotten me way closer than the 2nd bolt. If you're unsure, rap with 2 60m ropes. I think the problem may be that I'm 195lbs and get a lot of stretch.

By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Jun 3, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I would like to somewhat rescind my previous comments. You can't get to the ground with a 60m, but you can get to a ledge that has a short 3rd class scramble off. Sorry for any confusion.

By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 9, 2007

This was a good climb and solid 10 the way up. We used 1 rope to rap with and it was not a big deal. Make sure you tie the ends of the rope if you only use 1 rope and have no problem down climbing about 10 feet.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 30, 2009

Only did the first pitch which was a blast. Lowered off our own draws with a 70m rope.

By Lyn
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 22, 2009

Great warm up route! A 70 meter rope gets you to ground with 10-15' to spare.

By Lynn S
Aug 28, 2009

Very enjoyable pitch.

By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Rex is right. Finest sport .10a in Colorado. So many surprises and techniqie moves. Ya just don't expect to find this level of wow in a .10.

By Frogmen83
Jul 30, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route with diversity, but best 5.10a in CO?
Route felt 5.8/5.9 with 1 move you could argue to be 5.10a.
A great route for 5.9 leaders though breaking into the grade.