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Lizard Head Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Squeeze My Lemon 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave and Scott Lunt
Page Views: 5,507
Submitted By: Rob Hyldahl on May 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (86)
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Late season Lemon Squeezing.

Description 

As you approach Lizard Head Wall, this climb is the obvious vegetated splitter hand crack located on the east side of the wall. Start in the bushes on a right slanting ledge that gains a flaring splitter crack. Fire up this, surmounting the large foliage to a beautiful hands splitter. Continue following this crack until it trends left and runs out. Make a step left into a short dihedral with......you guessed it......great hands again. Follow this to a tree anchor. Descend the route easily with a 60m rope from this anchor (the webbing could probably use replacing).

Protection 

protection to 2" with extra hand size pieces


Photos of Squeeze My Lemon Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin Brown sketchin on his first lead of the season!!
Kevin Brown sketchin on his first lead of the seas...
Squeeze My Lemon follows the nice hand crack in the middle of the photo
Squeeze My Lemon follows the nice hand crack in th...
Elaine walking the line
Elaine walking the line
Squeeze My Lemons. Amazing views! Worth the climb!
Squeeze My Lemons. Amazing views! Worth the climb!
adam in the meat of it....
adam in the meat of it....
da bottom of da lemon...
BETA PHOTO: da bottom of da lemon...
Chris Ringel on the upper part of the route.  Pretty good view of most of the crack/slab
Chris Ringel on the upper part of the route. Pret...
shaun just past the cool traverse
shaun just past the cool traverse
Jake Werner
Jake Werner
Cool crack to crack moves on this one! A very enjoyable lead
Cool crack to crack moves on this one! A very enjo...
A first trad lead....
A first trad lead....

Comments on Squeeze My Lemon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 3, 2014
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 27, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great climbing that is unfortunately interspersed with a couple of vegetated spots: a small tree and a series of bushes. The bushes being the worst. Very fun jams, and the traverse left climbed great as a hand traverse. This could really use a set of anchors to avoid totally killing the small belay tree.
By Sunny-D
From: SLC, Utah
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The anchor for squeeze my lemon has been replaced and moved about 15 ft higher to finish out the crack. 2 bolt anchor. The tree is just about dead and is growing on a death block at the top of a flake. The block should be moved in the next week. WITH THE NEW ANCHORS ONE 60 METER ROPE MADE IT TO THE GROUND AND THE NEXT TIME WE CLIMBED UP THERE, A DIFFERENT 60 METER ROPE LEFT THE ENDS HANGING ABOUT 10 FT OFF THE GROUND. I am going back again this week with yet another 60 to try to get a better read. A 70 for sure reaches as well as using 2 ropes to get off.
I have also cleaned up the crack so it no longer has any vegetation growing in it. This is a great 5.7 crack climb.
By tenesmus
Nov 27, 2007

This makes a really good first 5.7 lead and is perfect for teaching people how to hand jam. Sews up with a standard rack using nuts and cams but an extra set of hand sizes takes some thought out of it. Bring a few long runners too. That block at the top looks fine but when you move the last cubic foot of the large spike behind that tree a seam appears showing how loose it is. The new anchor also makes it a lot easier and safer to TR Errant Edge with its nice red granite edge climbing.
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Mar 19, 2008

Fun route with some pretty cool jamming. The only vegetation I saw on the entire route was the large tree growing in the crack 10 ft off the ground. A 60m rope from the new anchor reaches the ground just fine.

No stars in the Ruckman guide.....two now that its cleaned up.
By sfotex
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 13, 2008

Fun climb now that it's mostly defoliated. Worth checking out.
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Aug 20, 2008

With so much cleaning going on up here, why not remove that bush in the first 10 feet? this would be a much better climb with out it.
By grk10vq
Administrator
Aug 20, 2008

"With so much cleaning going on up here, why not remove that bush in the first 10 feet? this would be a much better climb with out it."

thats a good idea! and while we're at it, why not chop down the remaining forest and pave a trail to the base.
By grk10vq
Administrator
Aug 20, 2008

"SirCamsalot" wrote then deleted:

"grk10vk wrote; "Thats a good idea, and while we're at it, why not chop down the remaining forrest and pave the trail to the base"

Wow. Coming from a guy who cleaned 30+ feet of LIVE scrub oak from Zesty and (really did) chop down multiple trees that shrowded the base of Sqeeze My Lemon and Errant Edge...that seems like a pretty snotty comment. Are you a hypocrite, or just a dick?"

1. if you're going to quote me, please do it correctly. for starters i know how to spell the word forest.
2. if you did your homework you'd see i had nothing to do with the zesty but express my opinion of it's suggested grade.
3. for the record, i did not cut, lop, axe, or chop a single tree while i was up there. i'm a tree humper not a tree hater.

you know what they say when you assume, it makes an ass out of you and well...just you in this case.

and to answer your question; i am not a hypocrite, the latter however, is up for debate.
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Aug 20, 2008

Are you not Dallen? If not, then I apologize for calling you both a dick and a hypocrite. I thought you were one in the same. Carry on with said tree humping and I'll take my F- for homework done.

edited to note: I don't think dallen to be either a dick or a hypocrite....never met the guy, I was only calling out what I thought (and made an ass of myself in doing so) was a blatent contradiction of ethics based on comments made and I'm going to STFU now.
By Ben Folsom
Aug 23, 2008

It is a tree (Mountain Mahogany), not a bush and should not be removed. It makes a nice jug, from the picture it looks healthy.
By tenesmus
Aug 23, 2008

geez steve, you're taking a beating on this one.
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Aug 23, 2008

naw...just opinions. i just figured with all the "housekeeping" going on up there a small bush wouldn't be missed. Guess i was wrong.

and yes, i'm a douche for mixin up sunny-d and grk
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Aug 23, 2008

Ben, are you arguing that because its a tree, not a bush, then it shouldn't go? Or because it provides a great hold? Like those trees on the first and last pitches of Pentapitch?

And SGileadi, are you aware of how many "bushwhack crack-like" trees were removed from Zesty? A route you've climbed and liked?

I'm not tryin to stir the pot here...but can someone tell me the difference between route maintenance and raping mother nature?
By Paul Anderson
Aug 23, 2008

I caution your community in farming out routes. If itís a danger to climbers then by all means, but if not, why? I would encourage preservation to enhance the canyon for future generations. The tree looks tame to me.... Anderson
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Aug 23, 2008

not losing my head at all...thats why i dislike online conversations...too hard to read the other person's intentions. I was just wondering where that line is drawn. i too think some gardening is great and i like how that area has been developed in the last year or so. I was just suggesting something that is going to happen eventually, especially if that area gets the traffic that it should. this route is awesome, but i give that tree 5 years max.
By Ben Folsom
Aug 23, 2008

Sir, I guess I hold more importance to trees than shrubs. Although that is just a personal opinion and there is no good reason for it. I haven't even done the route, was just looking at the picture and it looks like the tree is a nice, interesting feature of the climb. I was just kidding about the hold, although I usually do use trees if they are growing out of the crack. I don't mean to stir anything up either. I don't have any personal knowledge of the route. From the picture it looks like the tree doesn't get in the way.
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Aug 23, 2008

point taken

cheers!
By zoso
Aug 31, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Wow. I haven't looked at this for a while.
I helped Dallen clean this line a little. I did cut off a little of the left side of the tree--strictly to make the climbing enjoyable. We decided not to take the tree out completely or to trim the right side as one would almost never want to climb the crack in that direction anyway. We agreed (as do others apparently) the tree added character to the route and should be left. And of course the less gardening the better--for all.
Just thought I'd confess to the holy ones (heh heh).
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 22, 2008

I thought this was one of the best 5.7's I have ever done. Other than the slightly gritty start, the whole thing is really clean now. I was really impressed with the quality of the climbing. The hand crack right below the imfamous tree was worth the hike alone. Thanks for all te cleaning efforts. Way to go guys!
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Nov 22, 2008

Great climb. Better than Bushwhack Crack, in my opinion; it's more varied and more interesting.
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
May 18, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great crack, lots of variety on the moves. This protects well with many different sizes of camalots, and a few runners are handy. The tree/bush is alive and well btw!!
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jun 2, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A great climb thats worth checking out! Like Tristan said, it is fun and varied. Finishing on the beautiful splitter makes me want to go climb zesty now.
By Tryhard
From: Sandy, UT
Oct 18, 2009

Super fun climb. This was my first 5.7 hand crack lead. Excellent variety, and a few committing moves. If 5.7 is your grade, I would definitely recommend bringing a standard rack up to BD #4 or possibly #5 (for off-width at very top of climb). In addition, make sure you have at least one extra in sizes .5 through #3. I took 3 hexes to compliment my sparse rack of cams and nuts, but found that the crack didn't really take BD hexes well. Rapped off with two 60m ropes.
By tenesmus
Oct 19, 2009

Thanks for that bolt warning. I've tightened it twice but obviously it isn't working. I'll replace it in the next few weeks. I need some Mike White assistance to help me figure out why this is happening. Or some LockTite.
By Michael Buchanan
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The best first 5.7 crack in the canyon. this thing is five FUN!
By DaveHerr
From: Park City, ut
May 18, 2010

Fabulous route for a wide range of climbers. Plus, a good tree dodge while staying in the crack knocks this climb up to an 8 at the bottom. Betsy D did this 5-16 as her first climb ever with a big smile, bravo Betsy!!!!!
By Donovan
From: West Jordan, Utah
Mar 22, 2011

My first pitch of the season, used a single 60m. I was able to rappel down no problem by heading left, just right of the foliage.
By tenesmus
Apr 17, 2011

Anchors Fixed, thanks to Grk and Monkey for helping out. Thanks again to the ASCA.
By spencerparkin
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 6, 2011

Backed off the lead on this one -- felt pretty humiliated -- it was arrigent of me to think I could lead it. Anyhow, it can be easily top-roped by scrambling up the gully left of the cracked slab containing the route. I took a belay up this awful tree-filled gully and used the trees for pro. Beware of ticks! There might be an easier way to access the chains by going around the right side of the slab, but we didn't try it. Anyhow, on TR, we sent the route, and it is really fun! If you are setting up a TR this way, be sure to protect yourself while reaching for the top anchors.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The only thing you should feel humiliated about is your spelling. Arrigent fool, up your game to BCC 5.6 before trying to crush LCC 5.7s.
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Aug 10, 2011

This is truely the next Bushwhack Crack, funner in my opinion. Leave the big stuff at home. A standard rack will suffice, I placed only 1 #3 and really didn't even need it. You'll never fall out of the deep stuff and there are thankgodchickenheads all over to get you to the next hand/finges sized crack. Exciting few moves.

One other variation climbs a perfet BD #2 crack. After the initial tree down low, the route skirts left a little until you get to the wide crack. If you were to just continue left on easy ledges you'd find the highly slanting hand crack. Perfert hand jams for 60 feet with sold feet and you'll get to the top with all smiles. Take multiple #2s for this route or just keep walking up the only one you have. Either way, its a safe, fun, alernative to SML .
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 10, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

To Sir Camsalot: the hand crack is Zesty, starts about 40' left of SML with some face climbing.
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Aug 11, 2011

And Zesty it is.
By Ryan Goslin
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 14, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

re-climbed this one you can leave the #4 at home just make sure to place gear before the wide sections. Better then bushwhack for sure. The jams are sooooo good.
By Travis Haussener
Aug 15, 2012

Amazing route (enough said). Definitely some spice here and there but nothing that can't be backed up with a solid nut or cam placement. Scariest part for me was doing the second angled traverse to the ow type crack, the holds here ran out and its a relatively big move. Also the nut here (which I assume someone fell on) was removed. I used the #4 but it really isn't protecting anything too scary so if your more confident than an amateur like me you can definitely leave it at home.
By JPK
Oct 19, 2013

Climbed this yesterday as my first trad lead! Amazing! Definitely had some moves that made me nervous as a first timer, but I loved every minute of it! I carried a #4...it made the OW before the anchor less nerve wracking, but there is a tree and a beautiful crack below, and chains above, so if you are more experienced, I agree with Travis and Ryan, it is not needed. I enjoyed having my extra #0.75 and #1.
By Kai Larson
From: Sandy, Utah
Feb 18, 2014

This route is pretty clean at this point. Not much vegetation on the route, and what is there (2 trees) doesn't get in the way of climbing.

Protection is quite good all along the route. double 1, 2, and 3 Camalots along with some smaller sizes gives you lots of options.

A #4 Camalot is nice for the upper offwidth section right below the chains, but isn't really necessary, as you can sort of squirm up the offwidth quite securely until you can get a bomber hand hold that allows you to safely leave the offwidth and get to the chains.

This may be my favorite 5.7 pitch in LCC.
By Thad VanDenBerghe
From: Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
Jun 3, 2014

Very fun climbing. So many gear options with several nice stances for placement. I always have to remember to save my #1 to place in the left hand crack just after the final traverse below the second tree. I once had a very tense moment trying to jam my last and obviously overcammed #2 in that crack during one of my first trad leads.