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Sunset South
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Unsorted Routes:

Squeeze Box 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Peter Henley - 1980
Page Views: 348
Submitted By: saxfiend on Sep 20, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Squeeze Box, Sunset Park, TN


Aptly named, Squeeze Box will test your skills in tight chimney climbing -- or at least getting into the chimney.

Starting in the alcove under the obvious wide roof crack, climb blocky ground to a narrow notch. Worm through the notch, then prepare for the business: finding a way into the bombay chimney above. After the resulting thrash, continue up through easier ground on a dirty slab to the top.


The last route in the Sunset South section proper. Starts in the roofed alcove about 30' right of Airbrush. Rap off a tree at the top.


Passive/active pro in the small to medium range. Build a gear anchor at the top.

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By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 20, 2010

Maybe I was missing some key hold or sequence, but the crux moves on this route (getting into the squeeze chimney) were WAY harder than 5.8. The top section is easy climbing, but covered with lichen and minimally protected. All in all, I wouldn't recommend the long hike to this route unless you're going to be in the general area anyway.

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