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Squealer 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ken Yeager
Page Views: 1,671
Submitted By: Smitty on Jan 1, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Flight Simulator from above the Oort Wall. The to...
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Description 

this route is directly obove Go with the flow 5.9, I personly think its one of the best headwall routes there. its the longest one and very consistant with lots of 5.11 moves. in the photo it runs strait up about 20 feet left of the white streek on the right side of the photo.


Protection 

seven bolts (well spaced) to a two bolt achor, need gear to #2 friend for first 60' (go with the flow) 70 meter rope or two raps.



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By Anonymous Coward
Dec 1, 2005

this route is bad ass! the best sport route ive climbed at 11c so far. situated next to mostly 5.12s it does not seem like it would go so easy, yet big holds and good rests make it only 5.11. stepping off the piller is wild. pumpy.

By dean fleming
From: sonora ca
Feb 18, 2006

best route at the grotto for sure!

By Dennis
Dec 24, 2007

Really fun and quite overhung. Didn't realize how much until on the way down. Can comfortably link Go With the Flow and Squealer with a 70m rope.