Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bauhaus Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Brothers S 
Brothers Carrutherzov, The S 
Choss Temple Pilots S 
Der Squeal S 
Der Stihl S 
Girl Talk S 
Gomorrah S 
Gropius S 
Huge S 
Hurl Jam S 
Ice Man Cometh S 
Liquid Culture S 
Love and Rockets S 
Motley Cruise S 
Roadside Prophet S 
Sigue Sigue Sputnik S 
Squeal to Stihl S 
Twisted Sister S 

Squeal to Stihl 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Dave Pegg, 2010
Page Views: 658
Submitted By: D-Storm on Jul 5, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

When in doubt, downgrade it. That's my way of saying this link-up of Der Squeal and Der Stihl felt pretty dang hard for 13b, with at least four cruxes (more like five), but I just can't quite convince myself to take credit for it as a soft 13c. Nonetheless, it's another great enduro tour of the Bauhaus.

Climb the first five bolts of Der Squeal, then make a tricky traverse left across awesome, grey-streaked stone with pockets to meet up with Der Stihl at a good left kneebar, which is below an interesting and rather powerful undercling crux. Above that, a long, immaculate headwall keeps you on your toes all the way to the anchors.


Location 

This route starts on the far right side of the wall.


Protection 

The route is equipped with cable draws. It would be nice if at least one of them were longer in a key spot to alleviate rope drag, as the route cuts hard left for 10 feet before going straight up. It helps to back-clean the first two bolts up to the first roof.



Comments on Squeal to Stihl Add Comment
Show which comments
By D-Storm
Jan 25, 2012

One of my friends, a short guy, like 5'4", found some beta that avoids the final crux and keeps the section at 5.11. That's all I'm gonna say about that....