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Hammer Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gemini Cracks T 
Sea of Holes T 
Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun S 
Smoke Screen T 
Squeaks of Gold T,S 
Wings and Stings T 

Squeaks of Gold 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Little help here? (perhaps Will Cottrell?)
Season: cool temperatures
Page Views: 879
Submitted By: J. Albers on Oct 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Squeaks of Gold is an apt choice of words for this route because that's what I felt like the whole time I was climbing up this thing. As in, I barely squeaked my way up this climb. Expect amazing, hard friction and smedge climbing for pretty much the whole 200 feet. Unlike some of the other more grotty, flakey rock found on some of the other face routes on Hammer Dome, the rock on this route is exquisite. The rock is brilliantly yellow, white, and orange colored and is water case-hardened to perfection. This route goes as one single 200 foot pitch, but there are anchors midway at 100 feet.

Climb past 5 bolts, clip the first set of anchors, and then climb past 4 more bolts to the second set of anchors. Keep in mind that this is not bolted like a sport route. Expect to do some hard climbing between the somewhat well-spaced bolts (albeit safely).

There is a variation to the first pitch called Shrieks of Bold (also very good). The variation is the right of the two bolt lines. Climb past 6 bolts and clip the first anchors and merge with Squeaks of Gold for the final 4 bolts. Perhaps a hair harder than the standard version (maybe 11b'ish).

I thought that the route was great, but a little punishing; WAY harder and more continuous than 'Glide Slope' (11a) over on the nearby Silver Streak Slabs.


Location 

Directly under the belay for the end of the first pitch of Wings and Stings are two bolts lines (all three routes actually share a set of anchors). From left to right, the order of the routes goes: Wings and Stings; Squeaks of Gold; and Shrieks of Bold.

Protection 

Draws for 10 bolts (11 if you do the variation).


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