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Squaw Cliff Area

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Overhung Tooth Boulder 
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Squaw Cliff Area  


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Location: 38.8032, -123.0132 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,754
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Nov 3, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: A good chunk of Squaw Cliff.

Description 

Located alongside the 101 in Mendocino County, this area may be quite north of the Jenner climbing areas, but in terms of commute time from the bay area, The Squaw Cliff area is just as close as many of the climbing areas around Jenner.

Next to the Russian River, and just North of the town of Cloverdale, The Squaw Cliffs offer some excellent bouldering opportunities, and also a few show lead climbs in the shadow of a large 400 foot cliff, known as Squaw Rock.

Most apporaches are under 2 minutes, so you're always going to be close to the car, but unfourtunately, you're always going to get some highway traffic as well. Additionally (and unfourtunately), some approaches will also require you to ford the river, which can be an interesting and exciting proposal.

Getting There 

From the Bay Area:

Head North on the 101 past Santa Rosa, and past the small town of Cloverdale. The main cliff is located in plain view of the highway on the left side, and is the first huge cliff you run inot north of San Francisco. The main pullouts are on either side of the Korean War Veterans Memorial Bridge, which runs alongside the cliff. The Northern pullout is 5.1 miles from the exit to the 128, which is on the North side of Cloverdale, just inside the Mendocino county border.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.7 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Squaw Cliff Area

The Shrew (aka-Shit Face) 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : The Untamed Rocks
This thin slab climb is on the rock behind the 2-3 smaller blocks that are closer to the road. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Squaw Cliff Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 18, 2003
Aron neglected to mention that most of the rock in the area is somewhat suspect. The first three bouldering problems we worked on ended when someone broke a key hold. Lots of holds will brake. Bring a spotter.
By mungeclimber
Feb 5, 2004
Post Pics of this area.

Inquiring Oysterheads will want to know.
By drunkenmaster
From: santa rosa, cali
Oct 27, 2005
the climbing is no where near the area of chossy cliff shown in the picture. and yes there is a lot of crumbly rock here but there is also a lot of great solid rock as well - all the climbs and boulder problems are on quality schist (and greenstone?) - you just have to find them..
By RyanG
Apr 1, 2008
I'm going to Clear Lake for a trip this summer and was looking for climbing in the area. Is Squaw the closest sport and bouldering to Lakeport?