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Squat 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 4,067
Submitted By: Justin Edl on Apr 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Pete Takeda on Squat.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the the beautiful offwidth roof thats about a hundred feet to the right of Moonsault. The bolts are there because when Bob Scarpelli did this thing there was no kind of reliable protection that was big enough available yet. If you use them, back them up. Squeeze up a chimney to the base of the roof and power your way out the roof using stacks, face holds, and over the head foot and leg tricks. Wild climbing. Beautiful route. One of the original offwidth roofs in the country.

The name is from the fact that it looks like a bare butt squatting person. Guess where the crux is.

Protection 

3 bolts, also bring one old #5 Friend to back up the bolts in the roof, you can get an old #5 Camalot up there too if you want (this would be a comforting piece if skipping the bolts). A big cam protects the chimney just fine.


Photos of Squat Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the little devil ...
Looking up at the little devil ...
Steve Su getting ready for the business ...
Steve Su getting ready for the business ...

Comments on Squat Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ayescotty9
Sep 16, 2010

Thoroughly enjoyable article. I think it's appropriate to stick in a link for it under this climb.

petetakeda.com/journal/alpinis...
By Patrick Kingsbury
Dec 2, 2012

By jake marlow
From: laramie
Feb 5, 2013

That is awesome Pat!
By Cedar Wright
Nov 15, 2013

I was born again up there. 35 feet but feels like 700. Praise the Offwidth.
By khoa
From: 303
Oct 7, 2014

epictv.com/media/podcast/burl-...