Lichen or Not felt pretty easy for 5.9, but has so...
|Closed (private property)|
Squat Rock and Sphinx Rock are currently both closed.
Squat Rock has been the scene of a number of bolt "wars" in the past and has a little-known moniker that is less than kind to the original developer (unfairly? I don't know, I wasn't around at the time). The generally one-pitch slab and crack routes, however, are quality, and include the classic 5.9s Lichen or Not and Elusive Wapiti. Currently, the crag is by no means overbolted and expect some 5.7 - 5.9 runouts on the slab climbs.
From Pine (see area description), take Elk Creek Road West for approximately 0.7 miles to a small parking area (2, maybe 3 cars will fit). Hop boulders across the creek and follow the obvious trail for 5 minutes. It's best to keep following the trail to the point where your route starts as some unpleasant boulder hopping is required if you cut straight to the rock.
Weather station 8.2 miles from here
16 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Squat Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Squat Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Squat Rock:
Featured Route For Squat Rock
Sticky Fingers 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CO
: South Platte
: ... : Squat Rock
Just to the right of Slimy Slit is another great hand crack with a little flair in the middle. The first crack peters out and a very old, single bolt appears. If not clipped, moving past this and falling should not produce a ground fall with an attentive belayer and proper protection. However, the ride will be a bit scary. Many have taken a step right and used the crack route, Peter's Out, then back to avoid the bolt. Make it past the bolt to a flared crack that will then move ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 9, 2002
All of the no trespassing signs have been removed form the Squat approach. I heard the owner left town and doesn't care anymore.
Jun 2, 2003
Beautiful area (aesthetically). One of the nicest easily accessable climbing settings that I've experienced.
By Matt Chan
Nov 30, 2005
As of 11/29/05 the board that facilitated passage of the creek is gone. You'll need to brave a fairly long leap over ice water or bring an eight foot board. Whatever you do, don't trespass by crossing the bridge to the north.
By mark felber
From: Wheat Ridge, CO
Aug 17, 2006
Went there today, there are "no trespassing" signs everywhere that state that Squat Rock and Sphinx Rock are off limits. The signs specifically prohibit climbing and hiking. I was told by a local that the owners are concerned about liability issues. Time to get caught up on my Access Fund dues.