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 ADVANCED
Squat Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Branded T 
Casual Corner T 
Elusive Wapiti T,S 
Flamingo Road T,S 
Higher Education S 
Jelly Omelet S 
Kirk's Corner T 
Lichen or Not T 
Misfit Kids T 
Miss Conception T 
Sex Favor TR 
Slimy Slit T 
Smut Puppy S 
Sticky Fingers T 
Temporary Clemency T,S,TR 
Urban Development T 

Squat Rock  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Darin Lang on Apr 28, 2005
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Chris Parks tops out on the quality jams of Kirk's...

Closed (private property)

Description 

Squat Rock and Sphinx Rock are currently both closed.

Squat Rock has been the scene of a number of bolt "wars" in the past and has a little-known moniker that is less than kind to the original developer (unfairly? I don't know, I wasn't around at the time). The generally one-pitch slab and crack routes, however, are quality, and include the classic 5.9s Lichen or Not and Elusive Wapiti. Currently, the crag is by no means overbolted and expect some 5.7 - 5.9 runouts on the slab climbs.

Getting There 

From Pine (see area description), take Elk Creek Road West for approximately 0.7 miles to a small parking area (2, maybe 3 cars will fit). Hop boulders across the creek and follow the obvious trail for 5 minutes. It's best to keep following the trail to the point where your route starts as some unpleasant boulder hopping is required if you cut straight to the rock.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.2 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',5],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Squat Rock:
Slimy Slit   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Lichen or Not   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Elusive Wapiti   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Kirk's Corner   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Squat Rock

Featured Route For Squat Rock
Christine Murphy seconding Sex Favors at the last ...

Sex Favor 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CO : South Platte : ... : Squat Rock
This is a slabby route just left Elusuve Wapiti [and Jelly Omelet]. Start by either climbing a creaky and crumbly flake or traverse in from the right to the first bolt. The crux comes right after the first bolt with a balancing move. Follow a couple more bolts up some 5.9ish ground and then run it way out on easy ground to the big ledge which has an anchor you can not see from below. It seemed to me that this route was easier than Jelly Omelet because it is...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Squat Rock
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 9, 2002
All of the no trespassing signs have been removed form the Squat approach. I heard the owner left town and doesn't care anymore.
By TBD
Jun 2, 2003
Beautiful area (aesthetically). One of the nicest easily accessable climbing settings that I've experienced.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Nov 30, 2005
As of 11/29/05 the board that facilitated passage of the creek is gone. You'll need to brave a fairly long leap over ice water or bring an eight foot board. Whatever you do, don't trespass by crossing the bridge to the north.
By mark felber
From: Wheat Ridge, CO
Aug 17, 2006
Went there today, there are "no trespassing" signs everywhere that state that Squat Rock and Sphinx Rock are off limits. The signs specifically prohibit climbing and hiking. I was told by a local that the owners are concerned about liability issues. Time to get caught up on my Access Fund dues.