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Squat Rock

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Branded 
Casual Corner 
Elusive Wapiti 
Flamingo Road 
Higher Education 
Jelly Omelet 
Kirk's Corner 
Lichen or Not 
Misfit Kids 
Miss Conception 
Sex Favor 
Slimy Slit 
Smut Puppy 
Sticky Fingers 
Temporary Clemency 
Urban Development 

Squat Rock 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Darin Lang on Apr 28, 2005
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Chris Parks tops out on the quality jams of Kirk's...
Closed (private property)

Description 

Squat Rock and Sphinx Rock are currently both closed.

Squat Rock has been the scene of a number of bolt "wars" in the past and has a little-known moniker that is less than kind to the original developer (unfairly? I don't know, I wasn't around at the time). The generally one-pitch slab and crack routes, however, are quality, and include the classic 5.9s Lichen or Not and Elusive Wapiti. Currently, the crag is by no means overbolted and expect some 5.7 - 5.9 runouts on the slab climbs.


Getting There 

From Pine (see area description), take Elk Creek Road West for approximately 0.7 miles to a small parking area (2, maybe 3 cars will fit). Hop boulders across the creek and follow the obvious trail for 5 minutes. It's best to keep following the trail to the point where your route starts as some unpleasant boulder hopping is required if you cut straight to the rock.


16 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',5],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Squat Rock:
Slimy Slit   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Lichen or Not   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Elusive Wapiti   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Kirk's Corner   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Squat Rock

Featured Route For Squat Rock
A short climb with the hardest move on somewhat blank area around an old bolt. Once past this the going is easy with a nice finger crack up and over to good bolts for belay, rappel or walk off. Just to the Right of Slimey Slit (they meet at the top). Photographer BAW.

Sticky Fingers 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a  CO : South Platte : ... : Squat Rock
Just to the right of Slimy Slit is another great hand crack with a little flair in the middle. The first crack peters out and a very old, single bolt appears. If not clipped, moving past this and falling should not produce a ground fall with an attentive belayer and proper protection. However, the ride will be a bit scary. Many have taken a step right and used the crack route, Peter's Out, then back to avoid the bolt. Make it past the bolt to a flared crack that will then move ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Squat Rock Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 9, 2002

All of the no trespassing signs have been removed form the Squat approach. I heard the owner left town and doesn't care anymore.

By TBD
Jun 2, 2003

Beautiful area (aesthetically). One of the nicest easily accessable climbing settings that I've experienced.

By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Nov 30, 2005

As of 11/29/05 the board that facilitated passage of the creek is gone. You'll need to brave a fairly long leap over ice water or bring an eight foot board. Whatever you do, don't trespass by crossing the bridge to the north.

By mark felber
From: Frisco, CO,USA
Aug 17, 2006

Went there today, there are "no trespassing" signs everywhere that state that Squat Rock and Sphinx Rock are off limits. The signs specifically prohibit climbing and hiking. I was told by a local that the owners are concerned about liability issues. Time to get caught up on my Access Fund dues.