Squash Head  WI3-4

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Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  WI3-4 [details] FA:  Doug Hansen Season:  Winter (Dec to Feb) Submitted By:  John Ross on Oct 29, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Avalanche debris at base of Squash Head (Jan. 07')

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Mt. Nebo Wilderness on south side of Santaquin Canyon. MORE INFO >>> The Mount Nebo Wilderness boundary parallels approximately 100-200 yards south of the Santaquin Canyon road from the mouth of the canyon to Tinney Flat Campground. Wilderness rules apply within the wilderness area (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills). This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Usually done in two pitches. The first pitch is a steep curtain of ice about 40 feet tall. In poor conditions there is a bolt ladder on the left to bypass the first curtain. The 10 bolt ladder is a route called Martini (A0, M8-9).

P1 - (WI4) Usually lots of water running down the first curtain and lots of air pockets. Hopefully good screw placements can be found. Pull over the top to low angle climbing for 30 feet, then walk up a short distance to a scramble to chain anchors on the left.

P2 - (WI3) Another exciting pitch. Climb the narrow formation for 50 feet to a low angle chute. Chain anchors are up the chute on the left.

Rappel the route, or continue on to Backoff. To get to Backoff, scramble up the rock/snow above Squash Head's top anchors to the top of the ridge to rappel chains. Rap down the other side of the ridge using a single 60m rope to reach the bottom of Backoff.

Name History: Squash Head was an indian chief that saved the lives of local settlers when he heard of an impending indian raid. Squash Head warned the settlers and told them to leave or they would be killed. After the incident the settlers wanted to name the town after him. Squash Head instead asked that the town be named after his son Santaquin.

Location 

The route is on the south side of the canyon .50 miles up the canyon from the Trumbolt Picnic Area locked gate. The climb is easily seen from the road. Short hike from the road to the base.

Protection 

Bring long ice screws for the first curtain. Shorter screws may be needed over the top.

Under the right conditions avalanches can rip down this gully.

Photos of Squash Head Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Squash Head from the road	BETA PHOTO: Squash Head: Usually done in two pitches. In poo...	Cell phone photo of Squash Head on 12-22-07.
JR Rowley - January 2013