Squash Blossom 5.12a PG13
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | John Duran & David Benyak, August 1988 |
| Submitted By: | DisturbingThePeace on Jun 16, 2008 |
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Description Note that I only TR'd this climb, if someone who has led it wants to update the description contact an admin.
Pitch 1, 5.12a PG13 140 feet
Head up 5.10 face climbing to a bolt and a fixed pin. Here things get hard, stem and layback your way up the thin seam (guide mentions pre-placing rp's to protect this section) to reach the stellar finger crack above. Jam up the finger crack to a small stembox and roof. Pull roof, second crux and more small pro. Head up on easier ground with great jams to a short left facing dihedral and the anchors shared with rawhide.
Possible to traverse right at the roof to join Rawhide for an easier variation.
Pitch 2, 5.9 150 feet, Shared with Rawhide
Head slightly left off the belay and climb a nice finger and hand crack up through a slightly tricky section, to easy low angle climbing to the anchor, there is an occasional 5.7 move or so.
For a nice finish head up the Great Escape to top out.
Location Start 10 feet left of Rawhide below a bolt and a fixed pin.
Protection Many small cams, RP's and small nuts up to #2 camelot.
| Comments on Squash Blossom |
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 4, 2008
rating: 5.11d PG13
| If this was a bolted face it would be no harder than .11+,. Does anyone out there know of anyone who lead this prior to 2006 with the obvious exception of John D? I think the route has a slightly more fearsome reputation than it deseves, (possibly even without the pin, though I know at least one individual has lobbed onto the pin and while the RP placement just below looks good, no garauntees on its actual quality), which causes most people to end up TRing it. There is good gear about every 12-15' throught the hard stuff. |
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 4, 2008
| Lee, I think Kevin Jaramillo lead this around 10 years ago or so.
I agree that it feels soft for a 12a without placing any gear. On TR it felt 11c/d or so. Certainly easier than Sister Sledge. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 6, 2008
rating: 5.11d PG13
| Even on lead it is no harder than .11+ unless you try to place in the middle of the hard sections. You have to be willing to climb to the good stances and place there, like I said good stances every 12-15'. You should just lead it I'm sure you're capable, I'd say preclipping the bolt on rappel and putting one of your rap lines through it then pulling the rope so it's clipped to the first is a good idea to minimize the risk of pulling your belayer down the gully should you pitch before the bolt. |
By Mick S
From: Sandia Park, NM
Aug 12, 2008
| The original (.12c) rating avoided the rest to the right of the small roof. I agree that it's .11d using the rest, and not nearly as scary with the fixed pin. |
By Ryan Curry
Apr 22, 2011
rating: 5.12a PG13
| Incredible climb with fun moves, good rock, and very sustained. I thought the moves coming out from under the little roof were cruxy and exciting, especially since the feet were a bit dirty. This route seems somewhat neglected as it was dirty in several sections and there wasn't a hint of chalk on it. It definately deserves more attention. Go climb this thing! |
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