Squaretop is the formation that appears flat-topped when looking at the skyline of the west Stronghold. It is home to one of the Stronghold's best routes, Cragaholic's Dream. To approach Lower Squaretop, where Cragaholic's starts, follow the directions below.
From the parking area, take the righthand wash (the one next to the fence by the start of the path leading to the East Stronghold). Stay in the main wash, keeping an eye on Westworld dome to your left. After about half a mile, the wash curves to the northeast and heads toward Squaretop. Stay in the wash until Lower Squaretop is to your right and you can see the distinctive triangular roof on the second pitch of Cragaholic's Dream. When the climb is directly above you in the wash, you will find a gully that is easy to follow to the base of the cliff. If you don't make any wrong turns the approach takes about 45 minutes. Total approach distance is just over a mile.
Cragaholic’s Dream is one of the nicest routes in the Stronghold, but sees relatively few ascents compared to other climbs at its grade. The climb is entirely gear protected – not a single bolt, a rarity in the Stronghold for a six-pitch climb. It is a true gem not only because of its strictly traditional nature, but also because its rock quality is outstanding. With updated approach directions and a detailed new topo, this climb should be much easier to find and prepare for. For those climb...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
Just did Cragaholics with Jack Tackle on 11/17/12. Very good climb....actually a trad climb in an area falsely noted for being trad oriented. I'll never understand why descriptions say you MUST stem/lieback the first part of second pitch. Rightside in heel/toeing works fine and is much more secure. To keep the rope from hanging up on the second rap have the first climber rap to new anchors 30 feet above the sling anchors of the last rappel. Then have the second rap to the sling anchor. The first climber then pulls the rope and does a short rap to the slings. From the sling anchors it is one 200 ft. rappel to the ground.