Squarenail is predominately a sport crag with easy acess a short distance from Tollhouse rock, and closer to Fresno. It holds both moderate slab and steep face climbs, as well as a few cracks. Routes range from 5.5 to 5.12.
From Prather, continue up 168, turning left at the stop sign up the "4 lane." From the stop sign, clock 5.2 miles. park at a pullout on a sweeping left-hand curve with a road-cut. You have to hop the curb just after the guardrail ends. A trail starts just before the roadcut rises up -- its a little hidden behind some brush. the trail takes you to the top of the cliff. Follow a gully down to access the main wall and harder (5.10 and up) routes. Continue along the top of the rock to a path leading down left to a scree gully and back to the slab routes.
17 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Squarenail
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Squarenail:
Featured Route For Squarenail
Local Information for Squarenail
|By Dave Daly|
From: Temecula, CA
Jan 26, 2009
This (Squarenail) should be set as a seperate area in the Sierra Foothills region.
From: SEKI, CA
Apr 20, 2012
led Mr Wizard recently and its a pretty good route. mid life crisis looks good too.
|By Chris Blanchard|
Nov 24, 2012
Does anyone know what the bolted route is on the block above playground ledge? It is sewn up pretty good and I was super interested in getting on it .... but I couldn't find a starting hand hold .. or foot hold .. or any hold??
|By Aaron Slaven|
From: Fresno, CA
Mar 28, 2013
Chris, it's just been referred to as the "Aid Boulder" in the guide books.
Jetstream (.10c) - left trending w/ 4 bolts.
True Grit (.10b) - right trending offwidth crack.