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Squarenail is predominately a sport crag with easy acess a short distance from Tollhouse rock, and closer to Fresno. It holds both moderate slab and steep face climbs, as well as a few cracks. Routes range from 5.5 to 5.12.
From Prather, continue up 168, turning left at the stop sign up the "4 lane." From the stop sign, clock 5.2 miles. park at a pullout on a sweeping left-hand curve with a road-cut. You have to hop the curb just after the guardrail ends. A trail starts just before the roadcut rises up -- its a little hidden behind some brush. the trail takes you to the top of the cliff. Follow a gully down to access the main wall and harder (5.10 and up) routes. Continue along the top of the rock to a path leading down left to a scree gully and back to the slab routes.
Browse More Classics in Squarenail
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Squarenail:
Graceland 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Are You Small? 5.7 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Lost in Space 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet
Soul Kitchen 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Featured Route For Squarenail