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Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)

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Brain, The 
Chimney, The 
Joe's Place 
Nose, The 
Practice Session 
Prize, The 
Standard Route 
Thriller Arete 
Unknown (Left of Practice Session Right of The Brain) 
White Face, The 

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch) 


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Location: 44.2581, -71.2523 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,596
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: James Otey on Jun 5, 2007
Good Page?2 people like this page. Your opinion:   
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The buisiness of Thriller Arete

Description 

The premiere crag of Pinkham Notch sadly goes under the radar for many ambitious trad climbers. An excellently varied plethora of trad and toprope routes from 5.4 to 5.12 are just waiting to be climbed, but they are not noticed nearly as much as their big brother, Cathedral Ledge. Square ledge is never completely deserted, though traffic is thin compared to other flagship crags in northern New Hampshire. At times in the summer, however, it can get quite crowded, as it is a popular crag for group functions. Though hikers wont hinder your climbing in any way other than asking lots of questions, they often hike to the top of the ledge for its excellent views of the Presidential Range and Tuckermans Ravine.

Because Square Ledge is largely surrounded by trees, one can almost be certain of finding a nice shady spot while still being able to watch the day's proceedings.

Square Ledge is quite unique in terms of rock type. It features a horizontally running schist, mixed in intermittently with strips of quartz. The schist provides excellent friction for the feet, yet the crimps are not too sharp as one would imagine- still pleasantly positive though.

With an excellent variance of routes ranging all the way up to 5.12b, square ledge is a great crag to bring new climbers for toproping, or intermediates looking for their first traditional lead. Square ledge also provides a great opportunity to challenge oneself on hard routes that don't fit the traditional mold. At two pitches and 130 feet, Square Ledge also makes for a memorable first multi-pitch. The views and atmosphere are wonderful, and the approach isn't that long.


Getting There 

West of route 16, Square Ledge is easily seen from the parking area at the AMC center in Pinkham. After finding a spot in the huge parking lot, cross route 16 to find a well defined trail. Follow it across a wooden bridge until you reach an intersection. Turn left, following the sign to Square Ledge. After about 20 minutes of moderate hiking, the trail will deposit you at the base of the main face: the 130 foot section on the far left side of the Ledge.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch):
Standard Route   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
The Chimney   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Joe's Place   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 100'   
Unknown (Left of Practice Session Right of The Brain)   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
The Brain   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     TR   
Thriller Arete   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)

Featured Route For Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)
About half way up Thriller

Thriller Arete 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b  NH : Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch...
This prominent arete is certainly the most photogenic climb in the area, with terrific views of Mount Washington in the distance. About 60 Feet to the right of Standard Route, Thriller climbs the intimidating overhanging arete, following it up and right. Start on the right side of the arete, eventually making your way around the corner to holds the left. Eventually a jug can be reached near the top where you can shake out and consider the top out. Breaking left from this jug is a variation of th...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 5, 2007

In the past hikers have tried to climb up Square Ledge, this has resulted in at least one death in the past two years, please educate any/all hikers you might see trying to free-solo Square Ledge.

By rdlennon
From: New Hampshire
Nov 10, 2008

For those looking to boulder as well as climb some of these great routes, there is a very nice schist boulder near the base of the main face, just right of the approach trail. Reminiscent of Rumney, this boulder has several moderate lines (V0-V5) that follow aretes and rails using crimps. The right hand side of the tallest face has an excellent problem (anyone know names?) and the slab on the back has some crimpy face problems. There is a smaller boulder nearby that could be cleaned.

By BALDY
From: Gilmanton, NH
Oct 26, 2009

Another climb of note is a 5.10ish finger crack that breaks off left onto the steep face half way up "The Chimney" route. It protects well, and is on par with the other classic hard route "Thriller Arete."

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 27, 2012

i just deleted the "closed for peregrines" note attached to this... the official closures list from the audubon notes Square Ledge-Albany NH... this crag is in jackson i think...

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 9, 2012

I'm confused. The link at the top of this page still mentions a closure. fs.usda.gov says closure for "Square ledge in the Sandwich Wilderness." and accessfund.org has a link to this Square Ledge page.

By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
May 9, 2012

There is another Square ledge on Mt. Passaconaway, in the Sandwich Wilderness, which is closed for nesting.

By john strand
From: southern colo
May 9, 2012

Yet another Square Ledge is outside Berlin,, 350' and one route

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 10, 2012

Thank you for the clarification! The link on AccessFund.org leading to this page was misleading. :)